Sublime in da brine
It was freakishly warm and comfortable in the brine this morning. Usually, I’m hesitant to swim after so much rain, but today, it was just too damn seductive! It must have been 24 degrees at sunrise. I swam happily in the rips, mouth closed, for an hour—the rip between ramp 2 & 3 was HECTIC. […]
Moments
The volatile wet weather continues today; it’s pouring as I tap this out. Around 7:10 am there was a brief moment of sunshine, illuminating our bay – I got busy for 30 minutes capturing these images. The surf is small but doable. Waves breaking around waist to shoulder high, uncrowded. Winds are currently SSE with […]
Showertime
The beach is completely deserted as the south change takes over. It’s raining, grey and definitely not a beach day. I did see rideable head-high waves, but it wasn’t enticing enough for most. I didn’t shoot it – due to mundane subject matter! Here are some images from the last 7 days around the neighbourhood. […]
Glorious
It’s one helluva beautiful day outside in Sydney. The sun rose, unhindered by horizon cloud, and blanketed Bondi all morning. Vast numbers of people were up early, enjoying sunrise – it was crazy. Today’s ENE swell is small and mainly missing Bondi. Spike reckons it was 1-2 feet, which is practically overhead high for the […]
Pearl Jam Lane
Eddie Vedder surfs! And maybe he’ll dominate our rip bowls soon… Mention Pearl Jam to some of our young readers, and you’ll get – huh? – with eyes rolling back to tiktok immediately. Mention the Jam to someone from my generation, and they’ll reminisce about their youth! Today, you can walk down memory lane as […]
Knost x Bondeye
Alex Knost @knostthankyou is a unique, loose, colourful Californian free surfer touring our East Coast. This morning, he popped up in Bondi parading some alternative surf vehicles with Patty from @sunburntmess.surfI tried to drag Alex out the back; Bondi’s finest closeouts weren’t enough. He’s here celebrating his art exhibition opening at @chinaheights tomorrow night. Alex […]
Road Trip
We were up early in the dark, stalking rideable waves. We ended up at Maroubra, just south of us. It was a quiet morning down there. The nemesis SSE 15-knot gale is getting in everywhere, so quality is low; waves are overhead high though. These breezes are leftovers of that tropical cyclone – I’ll be […]
Lunchtime
This morning was quite dull, grey and uneventful down at Bondi. Ok-ok…I was watching Pipeline’s first WSL heats instead of shooting. (they’re now off for the day). At lunchtime, I knew the clouds would part – giving way to a glamourous Bondi Beach day. It’s a cracker now; go swim. There’s a little waist-to-chest-high wave […]
Muggy
After a warm night in Sydney (26 degrees @ midnight) we’ve woken to showers, greydom and 1-2 footers. The surf wasn’t too exciting; the incoming tide could bring more size. We have 19 knots of southerly, and the tide is still rising until 11:40 am. It looks very mushy. The beach was pretty quiet, many […]
Chocolate Slabs
I did little research before coming out to remote Papua New Guinea for a surf mission. Actually, I did try, but there’s not much information on the place. The swell forecast charts showed endless days of 0.5m (knee-high waves), so I presumed we’d be fishing or snorkelling for most of our time. I was pretty […]
Nugg Farm
Yesterday’s gale has subsided, and clean conditions prevail. Bondi had a few peaks in operation, but I favoured a little left-rip bowl, throwing out the odd 1-foot nugget. It was a glorious morning with mostly clear skies. Twenty-eight degrees forecasted, and it will only get hotter – Saturday will be a steamer at thirty eight! […]
The Skanky Port
A port is a part of my water housing that allows me to shoot in the brine. You have different ports to match your lenses. Over the years, I’ve shot with dozens of lenses whilst swimming. Today, I swam out with an old port from the back of the cupboard, and it had all kinds […]
Excursion
I took the mini-froth-lords on an excursion to an east-facing beach – hoping for bigger waves and less crowd. We weren’t the only ones with that idea! We discovered 3-4 foot bowls amongst an early (chaotic) crowd. I always thought Bondi was the pinnacle of surfing chaos – we’re not alone! NW winds and plenty […]