Awayco + Ace + Darkside
Like to surf? Yeah? Well, the past 6 weeks have been flat as. Real frustrating summer dribbles for days on end. Today has broken that swell drought and we have great waves! World No. 16 Ace Buchan dropped by for some pre-tour warm-ups. It’s dropping fast, 4-5 foot, East winds now (was offshore earlier). Hate travelling […]
Wild Child
Oh man, it’s been windy. Wind is good, wind creates waves. When this wind dissipates there will be decent (clean) surf for us to talk about. At the moment it’s very wild out there. So wild I reckon your board would blow clean out of your hands before it even got to the water. Sheltered beaches […]
Turbo Lefts
The planets finally lined up and the surf has come to the party. Bondi had some super fun waves and a massive morning crowd. Very difficult to snag a wave sans shoulder huggers. Light winds, 3 footers and a warm day ahead. Enjoy it, as tomorrow is cold and 19. The swell is fading fast, I […]
The Surf Highway
State Highway 45 around Taranaki is dubbed ‘The Surf Highway’ due to the vast number of surf breaks wrapping this corner of the North Island. I can see that with the right conditions there is 100 km’s of coastline to surf…most probably on your own. I’ve got a nasty south-west gale terrorizing the area today, […]
#Goodtimes
To begin our daily chat today I have a video from my most recent trip, Nihiwatu (Sumba Indonesia). WATCH NOW (hey, it’s only 2 mins, if you think you don’t have time to watch a 2 min vid then you need a holiday!) Proper good times this morning. The swell has kicked around to the […]
Tombstones
After a really cold start, things are starting to warm up. The winds are frosty offshore, it’s SO much warmer in the water than it is out. It felt like a bath. There is a right-hand rip bowl at South Bondi. It’s only 2 foot and heaps of water running out, so maintaining a relevant […]
Indo Magic
I won’t mess with words, Indonesia has been pumping this week. Why so good? Well, there’s been a constant supply of swell. Nice long period stuff all the way from the roaring forties down near Antarctica. Most days are 4 foot plus with a few beefy 8-10 foot days this week. Broke 2 boards in […]
Monday
Mondays are a favourite. The weekend’s crowds have dispersed, the beach is quiet. Monday’s are even better with waves (4-5 foot)! So many options today with a East swell. Empty line ups everywhere. Head to your local beach and there will be something for ya. :: uge
Doom
Look out the window. You see it? Sunshine! Yeah, right now it’s here and the thick storm clouds have pushed on. Enjoy it. It’s not gonna last as more cloud will return this arvo. BUT, tomorrow, well that’s a new day. 27 degrees, fine and sunny – BOOM! Hit the beach. I’m packing the family […]
Rip-able
Every day I wake up in hope for good light and waves. Sydney is pretty special in that you can surf something, most days. It doesn’t crank as much as other places in the world but it sure is pretty consistent for some sort of water activity. Bondi had a little wave on this morning. […]
Bbrr
Cold – ain’t it just? Very different to the last few days weeks months. ‘Grey’ and ‘drizzle’ – two words to best describe what I saw down the beach this morning. Gonna get even colder tomorrow. Ah-huh. I bet you didn’t get out from under the covers until it was in the 7’s. A good […]
Inbound
There is a long period solid south swell about to hit Sydney. It should be here any minute now. I would expect it to go from 2-3 foot to 6 foot by sun down. Good huh? This morning it was cleaner (sans wind) but smaller. Right now (12:30pm) it looks onshore and junkie, yet bigger. […]
Fresh Poke
It’s been really stormy here in Hawaii. I know, I know these pictures depict glorious sunny days. Well…I shot these a few days ago…but it can be stormy on the North Shore and crystal blue and sunny on the East Coast. The island of Oahu can be a little fickle with the weather, especially seeing […]