Squally
The rain has been on and off all morning, the winds are twenty knots of dead south, and the water is a cool 18. The head-high surf looked pretty junkie and uninviting – but empty. Very few people down the beach as the forecast was for rain. A great day to be productive! :: uge
6’s to 9’s
I’m loving today. Those dull, grey, rainy mornings (6’s) are now exquisite sunny, calm, clean sessions (9’s). The whole week looks decent. The central bank at Bondi had a wave this morning, but it’s fat, so you’ll need a high litreage in your surf vehicles. A big bunch of frothers feasting happily on the 2-foot […]
Conclusion
After a long week of storms, I think today its slowing down. You might even see blue sky later today – let’s hope it dries out our flood-affected areas. Tomorrow looks sunny! I can’t remember a week, in my 23 years of service, where I didn’t pick up a camera due to extremely bad weather. […]
Restore
Well, it’s been a rather exciting couple of days. I am not sure where to begin. We’ve gone from dull rainy days to non-stop action in the ocean. It all began late Friday when a gale force wind hit Sydney. It rattled my house all night, and on Saturday, we woke to an enormous, unprecedented, […]
scuzzy valley
When I was a kid, we’d surf Bali a lot. I can remember one day we saw an empty a-frame on the outer Kuta Reef, and 3 of us frothed out there – thinking we scored (everywhere else was packed). It was pumping and broke in the same spot consistently – 800 metres from the […]
Temperamental
I’ve returned from the outback and did my morning rituals down at Bondi – the weather is still volatile, just like when I spilt town. Indeed…surely, the clouds are now spent? Sydney has had its wettest 16-day period on record (617.4mm) – half of our average rainfall (1213mm). Still, nothing compared to our devasted northern […]
A L O F T
No need to visit the Maldives or The Caribbean; it’s on your doorstep. There are so many good features of today – the windless turquoise oceans even had a head-high wave for you to slay. The water must be 24 degrees – leave the wetsuit at home and plunge yourself into this salubrious Thursday. It’s […]
Flat Earth.
It’s flat az. It’s a lake. It’s so flat you could mistakenly think that you just woke up in The Med. It’s rare to see our ocean this flat and energyless. Surfing – ha!Swimming – ah-huh! It was a glorious spring morning with a chill in the air. The west winds always bite deep. Those […]
Tame
After a very dark start today, we’re evolving into a nice, sunny day with tiny waves and southerly winds. It remains quiet in the neighbourhood, as many opted for a snooze in. Possibly a sunset swim will prove fruitful as the weather improves. Wanna surf? Maybe (emphasis) perhaps a wave on Friday – but this time of […]
Semi-normal
Sydney is feeling semi-normal as we open up a bit more. A delightful weekend of spring weather and a thundering south swell that arrived on Sunday morning and continues today. It is fools gold out there; you probably ran down with your board thinking you’re going to score some four-footers…if you like close outs and surfing straight, […]
Heavy Duty
It’s a kinda bizarre day out there. Very moody – sunny and warm one second – raining the next. I’ve been down a couple of times to shoot and returned with wet gear. The swell has erupted and South Bondi is being pounded by 6-8 footers. The North end is the go with rideable protected […]
Fluidform
It’s still breaking, yeah, ah-huh, but smaller than yesterday. An excellent run of surfable days with light winds. Dreamy. Maybe this makes up for 2020 – where a wave didn’t break at South Bondi for 6 !@#!$ months! 6 months! 2 months of which we had a damn fence around a closed beach. So this […]
The Fall
Autumn, ah yes, some say the best time of the year. I tend to agree. The water is still warm; the winds are calm, sunshine is in abundance and plenty of swell. It’s a little chilly when you wake, but find the sun, and you’ll be right. I saw some sets around head high this […]