Hot hot hot
Flick the out-of-office on; you’re done for the day. It’s too hot not to go to the beach. There’s a huge mass of hot air creeping into Sydney from inland Australia. It’s gonna hit 37 degrees today. Yep, you read it right, 37. Waves – yeah, there’s some for the logs. 1-2 foot, peeling at 6 […]
Holey Moley
6 things you may not know about the Mentawais (where I am right now): In 1983 the archipelago of Mentawai was discovered as a surfing destination by salvage diver, west Aussie, Martin Daly. The first wave he surfed was Debuts, at the most southern tip of the islands (coincidently where we just slept the night). […]
Pleasure
Beautiful, damn fine, salubrious morning down at Bondi Beach today. The type of morning that’s it’s such a pleasure to do my job – swim. There are remnants of the weekend’s swell, clear blue water, clear skies and a positive vibe. New big swell arriving Wednesday/Thursday this week. We are getting a swell once a […]