Island time
I booked and paid for this trip three years ago. After many pandemic delays, it was an incredible feeling getting on a plane again, with four boards and cameras to drift amongst the islands of Indonesia – such a treat! This trip is my annual pilgrimage to the wave mecca – a place where we […]
Up/Down
The swell is up, and the temps are down! Oh boy, when that cold front rolled in yesterday, the temperatures plummeted 10 degrees in minutes. (min. 7.1 °C and max so far today 11 °C ). This morning we’re greeted with frosty well over head high surf and an empty beach. Two frothers tackled the […]
Disappeared
Gee that swell certainly disappeared – quick smart. It was 3-4 foot yesterday, and this morning it’s barely breaking. That’s OK, as it was a warmer, spring-like vibe at sunrise today. Sun was out, the winds were calm…and the ocean was inviting. Go for a dip. Did you see Aquabumps spreads in the latest edition […]
Burgertown
The 5am high tide was certainly porking up any water movements this morning. Bondi is perfect for 100-litre mals, with long lefts from way out back (shoulder to head high). You’ll struggle on a shortboard unless you’re hunting the shore break, which is pretty tight and short. SUN! How good-looking is today, it’s gonna be […]
Runaway swell
There’s been talk of a new swell last night, but I haven’t seen it. Maybe the direction is neglecting us – but it doesn’t look that big at exposed beaches either. Have you seen it? Quite a grey, quiet morning at Bondi. Sombre mood as the incredibly sad news of a young 29-year-old passing last […]
Thaw
A cold morning but luckily, we had a burst of sunshine at 6:30 am. It’s been dark and cloudy ever since. I don’t think it will rain today; higher probability tomorrow. The waves were a little lacklustre; the lower tides seemed unfavourable with the current bank setup. I reckon more tide as the day progresses […]
Belated
What, a 6pm Aquabumps update? Has the world gone mad? I would like to blame the work experience kid, Covid, staff shortages or say I’ve just got in from a 6-hour surf – but none of that’s true. I shot at sunrise but got tangled in many other things all day. So here we are…the […]
6’s to 9’s
I’m loving today. Those dull, grey, rainy mornings (6’s) are now exquisite sunny, calm, clean sessions (9’s). The whole week looks decent. The central bank at Bondi had a wave this morning, but it’s fat, so you’ll need a high litreage in your surf vehicles. A big bunch of frothers feasting happily on the 2-foot […]
Middle Peak
A beautiful start to the week with clean & calm conditions. At sunrise, the skies were completely cloudless, and tiny peeling waves on the middle peak – best suited to mal-riders. It was a big weekend in Bondi as the City to Surf was back on after a few years off. Loved watching so many […]
Gromfest
The waves had shrunk overnight, and there was a semi-closeout shorey at the south (1-2 foot). It wasn’t inspiring to surf, but the groms make it look good. Especially Blake’s shredders. A rainy day ahead – but the good news is that Sunday looks dry for the City to Surf fun run. In the good […]
Oops.
The bad news is that I totally missed today’s early pink sunrise. I saw it blossoming as I raced out the door. As I approached the beach, someone swiftly turned down the saturation dial and it returned to dark grey skies for my arrival. Bugger! Not even pink crumbs…just 50 shades of grey. I’m still […]
Chunks*
It’s chunky but not that great. It’s surfable but lots of hard work. It’s cold, but Surfline still suggests boardies and a vest will do (dreaming). On this very wintery Wednesday, we have some light showers, 17-degree water and a pretty deserted beach. There were some surfers out towards the north whilst south Bondi continues […]
Happy Mondays
Mondays are the quietest days at Bondi, especially when it’s cold. We had some rain earlier – that seems to have passed, thankfully. As we talked about, the swell is up, and there are 3-footers with an odd 4-foot set out there. It’s pretty junkie and confused but surfable. The banks are pretty weird at […]
Chaotic North
I risked my life venturing North of the tower this morning with the Wildlings. It’s Australia’s most dangerous surf location – the treacherous North Bondi – a spot where absolutely anything can happen. Riders go right on lefts, 10 Wildlings per wave, loose (10ft) boards in every direction – I’m on amazon now looking for […]
Flat Spell
This week has been the longest flat spell of the year. La Nina brings rain but also plenty of swells. Not this week – we’ve had very little to ride, and some of you may be getting a little twitchy. How warm was it last night and this morning? – weird huh? Spring coming? Kinda. […]
Koojah
Uncle Google reckons the name Coogee has derived from the Indigenous word ‘koojah‘, which means ‘bad smell’ or a ‘stinking place’. (I’ve got two little ‘koojahs’ running around my house!). The pungent smell was from the piles of seaweed on the shores of Coogee. No smell down that way nowadays…just sunrise community ice baths and […]
Lake Bronte
Ah, now…these are winter mornings that I remember! Cold mornings, clear skies and windless calm. What a cracker. Loving a break from La Nina. It is rare to see the ocean so calm as today. It’s flaaaaaaaaaat az. I’m talking nada, pancakes, ironing boards – the lot! Bondi was the only wave on offer, and […]
Gaps
In between morning showers, I ducked down to Bondi to see what was happening. Not much! Waves are tiny, half a foot to a foot. Winds were light, and the sun smothered in clouds. It’s chilly, and I bet there’s snow in dem mountains. Tomorrow is a fine sunny day, like this afternoon. No waves […]