Lil' Pete (now big Pete) is our local aerial master at Bondi

Gromfest

The waves had shrunk overnight, and there was a semi-closeout shorey at the south (1-2 foot). It wasn’t inspiring to surf, but the groms make it look good. Especially Blake’s shredders. A rainy day ahead – but the good news is that Sunday looks dry for the City to Surf fun run. In the good […]

See full post & more photographs
Bondi 7:00am, hiding under a dolphin

Oops.

The bad news is that I totally missed today’s early pink sunrise. I saw it blossoming as I raced out the door. As I approached the beach, someone swiftly turned down the saturation dial and it returned to dark grey skies for my arrival. Bugger! Not even pink crumbs…just 50 shades of grey. I’m still […]

See full post & more photographs
Chris, he's on Aquabumps everyday. Lucky guy

Chunks*

It’s chunky but not that great. It’s surfable but lots of hard work. It’s cold, but Surfline still suggests boardies and a vest will do (dreaming). On this very wintery Wednesday, we have some light showers, 17-degree water and a pretty deserted beach. There were some surfers out towards the north whilst south Bondi continues […]

See full post & more photographs
Flyboy Petey Kavanagh in morning shoreys

Happy Mondays

Mondays are the quietest days at Bondi, especially when it’s cold. We had some rain earlier – that seems to have passed, thankfully. As we talked about, the swell is up, and there are 3-footers with an odd 4-foot set out there. It’s pretty junkie and confused but surfable. The banks are pretty weird at […]

See full post & more photographs
Nils, back for Eurotour

Chaotic North

I risked my life venturing North of the tower this morning with the Wildlings. It’s Australia’s most dangerous surf location – the treacherous North Bondi – a spot where absolutely anything can happen. Riders go right on lefts, 10 Wildlings per wave, loose (10ft) boards in every direction – I’m on amazon now looking for […]

See full post & more photographs
There's those pinks I was talking about.

Flat Spell

This week has been the longest flat spell of the year. La Nina brings rain but also plenty of swells. Not this week – we’ve had very little to ride, and some of you may be getting a little twitchy. How warm was it last night and this morning? – weird huh? Spring coming? Kinda. […]

See full post & more photographs
Nothing stinking about this ocean pool gem at Coogee

Koojah

Uncle Google reckons the name Coogee has derived from the Indigenous word ‘koojah‘, which means ‘bad smell’ or a ‘stinking place’. (I’ve got two little ‘koojahs’ running around my house!). The pungent smell was from the piles of seaweed on the shores of Coogee. No smell down that way nowadays…just sunrise community ice baths and […]

See full post & more photographs
Very rare to see the ocean this calm.

Lake Bronte

Ah, now…these are winter mornings that I remember! Cold mornings, clear skies and windless calm. What a cracker. Loving a break from La Nina. It is rare to see the ocean so calm as today. It’s flaaaaaaaaaat az. I’m talking nada, pancakes, ironing boards – the lot! Bondi was the only wave on offer, and […]

See full post & more photographs
Dribble from the pack, North Bondi

Gaps

In between morning showers, I ducked down to Bondi to see what was happening. Not much! Waves are tiny, half a foot to a foot. Winds were light, and the sun smothered in clouds. It’s chilly, and I bet there’s snow in dem mountains. Tomorrow is a fine sunny day, like this afternoon. No waves […]

See full post & more photographs