South
After a colourful sunrise at Tamarama, I took a short drive south to The Bra and found some clean little waves (2-3ft). The higher tide made it a little fat, but surfable. Lots of cutbacks. The sun was out, and it’s been a dry day. The groms were dominating, whilst the beach was pretty empty […]
Good thunder
Hanging at Bondi, I was having major FOMO with all this ENE swell town. It’s like when your neighbours are having a massive party, and you’re at home, watching Wozzle heat reruns, drifting off to sleep at 8pm. Basically, Bondi is facing the wrong way for the current swell setup. Go to a beach facing […]
Road Trip
We were up early in the dark, stalking rideable waves. We ended up at Maroubra, just south of us. It was a quiet morning down there. The nemesis SSE 15-knot gale is getting in everywhere, so quality is low; waves are overhead high though. These breezes are leftovers of that tropical cyclone – I’ll be […]
Excursion
I took the mini-froth-lords on an excursion to an east-facing beach – hoping for bigger waves and less crowd. We weren’t the only ones with that idea! We discovered 3-4 foot bowls amongst an early (chaotic) crowd. I always thought Bondi was the pinnacle of surfing chaos – we’re not alone! NW winds and plenty […]
Dim.
Now that we’ve passed the winter solstice, the year’s shortest day is behind us. It’s allllll gravy from here, folks. The mornings will be brighter, the days longer and 4-6 foot daily. Ok, maybe the last part is a lie. This morning it was incredibly dark, hard for me to shoot. The swell has plummeted, and three […]
Peaky Windswell
After a restless, hot night, many were up for the early as the NE wind swell continued to deliver. At exposed East facing beaches, waves broke in the head-high vicinity. South-facing Bondi had fat shoulder high waves amongst a very full morning high tide. It’s cloudy now and reasonably cool compared with yesterday. The sunshine […]
The Clinic
Today is all about surfing as there are waves and coach Blake had a frothin’ pack of groms that he’s trying thrust onto the ‘CT. Good luck snagging a wave of this pack when sessions are on – they’re a hungry wolf pack. Pleasant conditions with golden light, clean surfaces and head high waves (adult […]
Bladerunner
Remember the movie Bladerunner? In every scene, it’s raining. A bit like Sydney. Everywhere I go, I’m wet – soggy. I’ve even stopped wearing shoes in big downpours – and just roll around bare feet. Fun, isn’t it? The postie rocked in with knee-high gumboots – that’s the ticket, clever. There’s a rumour people are […]
Feb so far…
I saw the sun last night, around 7 pm. I swear. There’s proof of my Instagram stories. It was hot, clear(ish) and beach weather, for about 1 hour…blink and you missed it. #notfakenews When is the rain going to stop? Mid next week, hopefully. Until then, we’re in for a deluge. There are small waves, […]
Crank
In the words of Strider Wasilewski, said with the same enthusiasm, “It’s firing out there”. Well, it was firing this morning before the wind came up. After days of constant onshore breezes, we finally scored a diamond day, gentle offshores with 4-6 foot chunks and spitting barrels. I swam for hours as ferocious rips tried […]
Pump / Dump
Hey hey! It’s just like yesterday, but bigger. We’ve had an excellent run of weather and waves over the past couple of weeks. The water remains a very comfortable 22ish degrees…the Gold Coast was 25 on the weekend! The swell is on the decline and will get smaller for the rest of the week. There’s […]
Murky Waters
All that recent rain has created some strange coloured ocean water in NSW. It’s currently an unattractive green-brown colour – stained from all the muddy river outflows along this state’s coast. Just imagine how much water has been flowing from the land out to sea this week – incredible. Warragamba Dam alone spewed out the […]
Relief
After days of onshore, it’s was clean this morning. As I write this post, the winds are swinging from the SW to the N. The beaches (all East beaches) were packed as everybody has been holed up at home, hiding from the rain. A cracker day ahead. 23 degrees. I like those digits. For the […]
