Shred
There’s still a wave on this morning; it’s around shoulder high but a little inconsistent. The winds are WNW, and the swell is from the south benefiting Bondi frothers. The left near 2nd ramp had some excellent little runners – but the morning crowds were keen! Busy. Glorious sunny day, again. Go outside for lunch. […]
BRRR.
Felt very cold this morning. Much colder than other June mornings. My phone was calling it 7 degrees, but sitting on a wet rock, shooting, before sunrise it felt much colder. Fingers went numb. It was good to see the swell is hanging around. I saw 3-4 footers this morning, clean too! Gotta love this […]
Empties
I wasn’t really into school as a kid. I spent most of my days drawing in sketchbooks, hiding in the school darkroom under the stairs, daydreaming out the windows…and generally being a naughty little punk. Most of the time I would sketch waves…empty ones…dreaming of sliding down ’em. My school books were coated in penned […]