Still good supply of swell, just a bit junkie today

Glory Dayz

Today’s not yesterday. Yesterday was kinda pumping. Today’s still got waves, but it’s got junk on it and I only rate surfing 3/10 – but it’s 10/10 for a morning swim. Reviewing all the beaches from my bike, I barely saw anyone ride a decent wave. Perhaps it’s the 6:00 a.m. low tide making it […]

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