The island wrap, Southern Mentawais

Le Gauche

Indonesia is the land of the left-handers. Indo’s orientation to the great swells from the Indian Ocean means they break left more than right. A goofy footer’s paradise. I reckon we surf 4 lefts to every right. I’m a natural footer! Our bump in swell is dropping and the swell magnets are still putting on a show. […]

See full post & more photographs
Shorty, slotted. Mentawai Islands, Indonesia

Ignite

Hey, how are you? 2 weeks ago, we saw a swell on the charts that would coincide with the middle of our boat trip. And yep, it arrived right on time and produced the goods. Mentawais has ignited. Waves are pulsing, and the boats are spreading out to their favourite reefs. We’ve surfed all day […]

See full post & more photographs
Small, but still hollow. Adrian Shortland behind the curtain

Telos

Hi. I’m in Indonesia for my annual surf-infused junket and loving it! We’re surfing the dregs of that swell that hit Bali for the WSL finals, and I won’t lie, it’s now small. When it’s small you can hit the exposed beaches which seem to always have a head high wave…and they’re so hollow. Not […]

See full post & more photographs
Lay days aren’t such a bad thing up here!Lay days aren’t such a bad thing up here!

Thunders

May, June, July are usually the best months to come to the Mentawais for surfing. It’s when all the winter storms down near the roaring 40s, 50s and 60s kick in, dispersing swell in this direction. I won’t lie, this trip we’ve had a consistent run of 3-5 foot days and beautiful weather – nothing […]

See full post & more photographs
Murray Jacob, biggest man grommet on the globe.

Goofy vs Natural

Fact: The best waves in Indonesia are usually lefts. It’s due to the physical orientation of Indonesia and how it relates to the South Westerly swell source. On a boat charter, there is a constant divide between the natural footers and goofys – we’ve got a 50-50 split this year and the wolf pack go […]

See full post & more photographs
Tumultuous weather in Mentawais, sunny one minute, overcast the next.

Holey Moley

6 things you may not know about the Mentawais (where I am right now): In 1983 the archipelago of Mentawai was discovered as a surfing destination by salvage diver, west Aussie, Martin Daly. The first wave he surfed was Debuts, at the most southern tip of the islands (coincidently where we just slept the night). […]

See full post & more photographs
Sums up Bondi surfing.

Dropped

It’s dropped off a helluva lot overnight. Leftover dribbles best suited to large surf craft with volumes well into the thirties. That’s cool, tomorrow the swell will return. The next few days should have fun waves, tomorrow being the biggest. The Bondi Barefoot is on Sunday, 24 September 2017. It’s a bunch of soft sand races […]

See full post & more photographs
Adrian Shortland snug inside, Mentawais

Indo Magic

I won’t mess with words, Indonesia has been pumping this week. Why so good? Well, there’s been a constant supply of swell. Nice long period stuff all the way from the roaring forties down near Antarctica. Most days are 4 foot plus with a few beefy 8-10 foot days this week. Broke 2 boards in […]

See full post & more photographs
Mick Eugene Fanning

MF in BW

Mick Fanning, dubbed the fastest man that has ever set foot on a surfboard, came to Sydney on this salubrious, grey, onshore, wintery morning. The waves are VERY junkie…but at least there is something to surf. Mick’s taken a year off after 15 years on the pro surfing tour grind. I asked him if he […]

See full post & more photographs

Turbo

Nothing like a bit of swell to kick off a week. Even better when it’s a south swell and feeds directly into Bondi. Waves were in the 3-4 foot mark…the banks are funky but at least you can paddle into something. Not a cloud in the sky – need I say any more? I went […]

See full post & more photographs

Sky Fire

I worked out that I’ve seen over 3,000 sunrises in my Aquabumps morning ritual career (15 years). Today’s sunrise was really something special…some of the brightest colours I’ve seen down there. I missed this morning’s twin, last night’s mind blowing sunset (which everyone is talking about)…so this morning made up for it. I was down […]

See full post & more photographs

1 P E D I

The surf is tiny but the water is warm and calm. Big crowd for such a small wave, all enjoying the summer vibe. Maybe some wind swell on the weekend, but this time of year ain’t famous for cranking waves. Better for partying and taking the foot off the gas. The postie is our new […]

See full post & more photographs

L A R K

A survey of over 400 adults showed approximately 15% are morning people, 25% are evening people, and 60% are intermediates. I reckon it’s more than 15% for early birds around here…especially this time of year. As I always write, the wee hours are the best part of the day. The light is good, the winds […]

See full post & more photographs