Broken on the cook, 2021

23 years

Twenty-three years ago, I had this groundbreaking idea of posting a ‘photo a day’ from the beach. Social media hadn’t even been dreamt up yet, a website called google had just started, and mobile phones were for talking to people. In the nineties, digital cameras had just become semi-affordable (well, kind of – the first […]

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The Keyhole - the only way out to Main Break

Margs

I’m over here in the West (Margaret River) for a real quick fly-through and it’s hoooooot (40 yesterday!). I forgot how dry and brutal the heat can get in West Oz. Perfect beach weather. The surf was 4 foot, cross-shore with a bit of southerly. 3 guys out at main break (wow) …so many beaches […]

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Retired and stoked, Taj Burrow at home and undercover

Cape to Cape

Cape Naturaliste to Cape Leeuwin is 132 kilometres of coastline in Western Australia’s South-West that’s littered with surf breaks. Some are well known; others are hidden down long winding, unmarked 4wd tracks. If you know where to go at the right time – scoring waves without crowds isn’t too hard. Recently retired pro surfer Taj Burrow […]

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Pumping! Grab the step up board. West Oz Sou-west region

Down South

My family and I have arrived in the Margaret River region of Western Australia’s South-west and the surf is lighting up. It’s been pretty big. I grew up in Perth and learnt to surf ‘Down South’. I haven’t been back in years so it brings back a lotta memories. It’s a wild place…so raw. I forgot just […]

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Shelter

I know I should have driven elsewhere. The east swell was dropping and south facing Bondi was neglecting the source. I could only salvage 1-2 footers on low tide banks down Bondeye. I’d think it would be 2-3 foot at exposed beaches, and definitely cleaner today as the winds backed down. It’s been a bit […]

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