Soak

Are you all wet? Hard not to be. It’s pouring outside. It is going to be like this for a couple of days so settle in. Good news is that this storm is going to bring a monster swell mid week. Tomorrow is going to hooooowwwl. I am talking 40 knots for 24 hours. That […]

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Inbound

There is a long period solid south swell about to hit Sydney. It should be here any minute now. I would expect it to go from 2-3 foot to 6 foot by sun down. Good huh? This morning it was cleaner (sans wind) but smaller. Right now (12:30pm) it looks onshore and junkie, yet bigger. […]

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Flat Az…

Amazing how different today is. In 24 hours the sunshine has gone, the waves are now flat, the crowds have dissipated and we have kinda a gloomy day down the shoreline. Pack the boards away for today – it’s unsurfable. Save your time for later in the week when 4-6 footers will break on Friday. […]

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Return

I’m back from my 5 week sabbatical in Hawaii. It feels good to be back. I need my travels to refresh my eyes – otherwise I can sometimes switch to auto-pilot shooting the same beach for 16 years. (yep, now 16 years). It was great to see good waves at Bondi this morning as well […]

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Off the Wall

I reckon we can learn from the Hawaiians. I’ve said it before…they have good priorities. If the surf is cranking – they take the day off and surf. All day. Last week I noticed most of the school kids even had permission to skip classes to score waves all day long in the sun. They […]

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Gums

Gums is a little patch of reef that sits right next to Pipeline. It’s kinda like the Kiddies Corner of Pipe. I see toddlers paddling into waves there all the time – Jon Jon probably surfed it when he was 2 (right out front of his house). When it’s big Gums turns into a drowning […]

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96712

Yep. Still here. Here in Hawaii that is. The weather gods have been kind and there has been plenty of cranking waves. Bet you didn’t know: Hawaii is the 50th state of America. It was the last to join and is dubbed the fittest state in the USA. That’s because everyone is surfing all day […]

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Trades

It’s been big and onshore here in Hawaii. Today is the first day in quite some time that the wind has gone back to it’s traditional trades. Very strange conditions for this time of year. Oahu still has plenty to do when the surf ain’t cranking…it’s an amazing island. Don’t forget it’s Valentines tomorrow…come visit […]

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Sand Bar

Aloha. I read the Hawaiian surf forecast for today. “Cross shore winds, 2-3 footers that will grow and sundown could be triple head high.” Oh…only triple head high. Shame the westerly winds are spoiling it cause it’s gonna get huge. Maui/Jaws is gonna pump (good winds for over there). What cracks me up is everyone […]

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