Jet-setting
“The world is a book, and those who don’t travel only read one page.” ― St Augustine The Travel Edition! Today we’re going around the world to some of my favourite places that I’ve visited this year so far. Why? Oh man, ‘ cause its THAT ugly down the beach with a 30 knot southerly, […]
Island Recap
There’s a storm in Sydney and the beaches are ugly. I’d love to be able to get in my car and go to the west side of this big island, Australia – but I don’t have that kinda time up my sleeve. Oahu was so good for stormy alternatives, the North Shore is ALWAYS stormy, […]
Queens
I’m in Hawaii, and it’s been a different kinda trip. I usually plant myself on the North Shore and only cover the golden mile. Ok, mainly I just shoot Pipeline, as the light, talent, waves are some of the best on the planet. This trip we’ve had Bodhi’s 50-year storm…and it’s blown the North Shore […]
Aftermath
The 30-foot waves and 90-knot gusts have faded, and all is slowly returning back to normal on Oahu, Hawaii. Hell, we might even get a trade wind tomorrow. The island is in clean-up mode as they repair from one of the most ferocious storms I’ve witnessed. Some beaches will need time for the sand to […]
Terabytic Discovery
These soggy rainy Sydney days are a great opportunity to dig through the Terabytes of shots taken on recent trips. If I stopped shooting I feel I would have enough supply to show you something every day, for years! (Don’t worry, I am not going anywhere – I love shooting, you know it). Grab a […]
The Rock
A L O H A. How are you? I haven’t posted in a while and you’ll probably figure out why when you see these photos. I’m in Hawaii. (A.K.A. The Rock) My family and I come here a lot, but we’re normally based on the North Shore and in winter. It’s summer here now and […]
Top Gear
T’was a busy one this morning. The sun came out, the surf cleaned up and at 5:30 am the insomniacs filled the beach. It was 3-4 foot at Bondi, but unfortunately, a vast majority of waves are closing out. Maybe it will improve on the high tide? Maybe… Do you want our latest book? Order […]
Soak
Are you all wet? Hard not to be. It’s pouring outside. It is going to be like this for a couple of days so settle in. Good news is that this storm is going to bring a monster swell mid week. Tomorrow is going to hooooowwwl. I am talking 40 knots for 24 hours. That […]
Inbound
There is a long period solid south swell about to hit Sydney. It should be here any minute now. I would expect it to go from 2-3 foot to 6 foot by sun down. Good huh? This morning it was cleaner (sans wind) but smaller. Right now (12:30pm) it looks onshore and junkie, yet bigger. […]
Flat Az…
Amazing how different today is. In 24 hours the sunshine has gone, the waves are now flat, the crowds have dissipated and we have kinda a gloomy day down the shoreline. Pack the boards away for today – it’s unsurfable. Save your time for later in the week when 4-6 footers will break on Friday. […]
Return
I’m back from my 5 week sabbatical in Hawaii. It feels good to be back. I need my travels to refresh my eyes – otherwise I can sometimes switch to auto-pilot shooting the same beach for 16 years. (yep, now 16 years). It was great to see good waves at Bondi this morning as well […]
Off the Wall
I reckon we can learn from the Hawaiians. I’ve said it before…they have good priorities. If the surf is cranking – they take the day off and surf. All day. Last week I noticed most of the school kids even had permission to skip classes to score waves all day long in the sun. They […]
Gums
Gums is a little patch of reef that sits right next to Pipeline. It’s kinda like the Kiddies Corner of Pipe. I see toddlers paddling into waves there all the time – Jon Jon probably surfed it when he was 2 (right out front of his house). When it’s big Gums turns into a drowning […]