One of my favourite spots in the world, Waimea jump rock

The Rock

A L O H A. How are you? I haven’t posted in a while and you’ll probably figure out why when you see these photos. I’m in Hawaii. (A.K.A. The Rock) My family and I come here a lot, but we’re normally based on the North Shore and in winter. It’s summer here now and […]

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Sage, frontside lip tickles

Top Gear

T’was a busy one this morning. The sun came out, the surf cleaned up and at 5:30 am the insomniacs filled the beach. It was 3-4 foot at Bondi, but unfortunately, a vast majority of waves are closing out. Maybe it will improve on the high tide? Maybe… Do you want our latest book? Order […]

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Soak

Are you all wet? Hard not to be. It’s pouring outside. It is going to be like this for a couple of days so settle in. Good news is that this storm is going to bring a monster swell mid week. Tomorrow is going to hooooowwwl. I am talking 40 knots for 24 hours. That […]

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Inbound

There is a long period solid south swell about to hit Sydney. It should be here any minute now. I would expect it to go from 2-3 foot to 6 foot by sun down. Good huh? This morning it was cleaner (sans wind) but smaller. Right now (12:30pm) it looks onshore and junkie, yet bigger. […]

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Flat Az…

Amazing how different today is. In 24 hours the sunshine has gone, the waves are now flat, the crowds have dissipated and we have kinda a gloomy day down the shoreline. Pack the boards away for today – it’s unsurfable. Save your time for later in the week when 4-6 footers will break on Friday. […]

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Return

I’m back from my 5 week sabbatical in Hawaii. It feels good to be back. I need my travels to refresh my eyes – otherwise I can sometimes switch to auto-pilot shooting the same beach for 16 years. (yep, now 16 years). It was great to see good waves at Bondi this morning as well […]

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Off the Wall

I reckon we can learn from the Hawaiians. I’ve said it before…they have good priorities. If the surf is cranking – they take the day off and surf. All day. Last week I noticed most of the school kids even had permission to skip classes to score waves all day long in the sun. They […]

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Gums

Gums is a little patch of reef that sits right next to Pipeline. It’s kinda like the Kiddies Corner of Pipe. I see toddlers paddling into waves there all the time – Jon Jon probably surfed it when he was 2 (right out front of his house). When it’s big Gums turns into a drowning […]

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96712

Yep. Still here. Here in Hawaii that is. The weather gods have been kind and there has been plenty of cranking waves. Bet you didn’t know: Hawaii is the 50th state of America. It was the last to join and is dubbed the fittest state in the USA. That’s because everyone is surfing all day […]

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