A L O H A.
How are you? I haven’t posted in a while and you’ll probably figure out why when you see these photos.
I’m in Hawaii. (A.K.A. The Rock)
My family and I come here a lot, but we’re normally based on the North Shore and in winter. It’s summer here now and we’re hanging on the East/South Coast which is just as spectacular – just lacking the big swells. The temperates feel exactly the same as winter – the islands maintain optimal conditions for human existence. I guess that’s a big factor why so many people are drawn to here.
Enjoy a 2 minute summary of my past few days!
T’was a busy one this morning. The sun came out, the surf cleaned up and at 5:30 am the insomniacs filled the beach. It was 3-4 foot at Bondi, but unfortunately, a vast majority of waves are closing out. Maybe it will improve on the high tide? Maybe…
Do you want our latest book? Order now, get it tomorrow (if you’re in the Auspost Next Day Network). Or a gift card always makes for good stocking fillers. (They are emailed immediately)
The Pipeline Masters is on right now. I just saw a 19-year-old Kanoa just nail Jordy Smith on Backdoor. Finals happening, watch.
Are you all wet? Hard not to be. It’s pouring outside. It is going to be like this for a couple of days so settle in.
Good news is that this storm is going to bring a monster swell mid week.
Tomorrow is going to hooooowwwl. I am talking 40 knots for 24 hours. That will rip a few roofs off and take your Sulo bin for a ride down the end of the road.
These stormy days are a perfect time for me to go through terabytes of recent trips. Let’s go to Hawaii…just for a couple of minutes…grab a cuppa.
There is a long period solid south swell about to hit Sydney. It should be here any minute now. I would expect it to go from 2-3 foot to 6 foot by sun down. Good huh?
This morning it was cleaner (sans wind) but smaller. Right now (12:30pm) it looks onshore and junkie, yet bigger.
Tomorrow will host large surf…nothing like what they’re going to get at the Margaret River Drug Aware Pro – which will kick off later this week. I can’t wait to see what the top 36 surfers in the world do with big Margies. Be a nice contrast from the conditions of the 1st 2 tour events.
You all know I love Hawaii. Well our buddies at SPEEDO are giving away a family holiday to Hawaii. I’m torkin’ flights’n’accommodation – the lot. How could you not click on this link.
Adios :: uge
Amazing how different today is. In 24 hours the sunshine has gone, the waves are now flat, the crowds have dissipated and we have kinda a gloomy day down the shoreline.
Pack the boards away for today – it’s unsurfable. Save your time for later in the week when 4-6 footers will break on Friday. Woohoo!
Surfing Chefs for Surfaid. A group of famous multi-talented men who surf and can cook are hosting a dinner for Surfaid – yes – Surfing Chefs. Who? World Champ Tommy Carroll, Martin Potter, Peter Doyle, Tom Walton, Russel Blaike, Ben O’Donoghue – hell even Perth Standlick and Rod Kerr (lifeguard) are cooking. Where? Bucket List Bondi March 11 Wednesday. VIP tickets $250, Cocktail $150 p/p (stand up format) – all for a good cause. Book here www.trybooking.com/120672 (See you there we’ve got a table)
I have a friend in Bondi who’s one smart little genius. Whatever he does he succeeds. His name is Gideon. He’s just launched his new venture called Monetise which is a website that performs a financial health check making sure you are getting the most from the banks and in turn saving your hard earned money. Read more
I didn’t have enough good photos from this morning to fill a report, so the tail end is some Hawaiian gold shot just before leaving…
I’m back from my 5 week sabbatical in Hawaii. It feels good to be back. I need my travels to refresh my eyes – otherwise I can sometimes switch to auto-pilot shooting the same beach for 16 years. (yep, now 16 years).
It was great to see good waves at Bondi this morning as well – I would even say it’s better here (today) than the north shore for the last few days (they’re having a small stint).
Looks like an East swell and south winds (cross shore at Bondi). Looks so fun.
You would look great in one of our tees. We still have some stock. Otherwise you’d look even better if you ate all your fruit and vege from local delivery service Fruitman Sam. He’s offering 50% off the first box – just call 0420 906 061. After being in Hawaii for 5 weeks you realise just how good our produce really is – we are so lucky!
I reckon we can learn from the Hawaiians. I’ve said it before…they have good priorities.
If the surf is cranking – they take the day off and surf. All day. Last week I noticed most of the school kids even had permission to skip classes to score waves all day long in the sun.
They are also very big on family. Their ‘Keiki’ (kids) is everything to them. Work doesn’t rank very highly. Island time dawg.
This is the last photo update from the North Shore of Oahu, Hawaii. The 1st half of our stint was windy but the 2nd half has been so good. Super blue, super clear and manageable waves.
If you’re around Bondi this weekend head to the Icebergs Dining and Bar (upstairs) and you could win a Aquabumps artwork. Big one. Go here for more info (this is the last weekend)
Gums is a little patch of reef that sits right next to Pipeline. It’s kinda like the Kiddies Corner of Pipe. I see toddlers paddling into waves there all the time – Jon Jon probably surfed it when he was 2 (right out front of his house). When it’s big Gums turns into a drowning machine, a rip monster that holds you in a bad spot for several sets. If you miscalculate your swim out to Pipe on a big day you end up at Gums…thinking, what on earth did I do to deserve this thrashing. Very humbling with hundreds of people on the beach watching.
Yesterday I learned that on a specific set of conditions – Gums pumps. Get a really West swell and some decent sand banks and you’ve got a reverse Snapper Rocks. Long winding lefts made their way down towards the beach park. It wasn’t big – say 3 foot with the odd 6 footer. But oh man it was fun. 90% of waves barrel, water was crystal clear blue and plenty of waves. A session to remember. Just wish I took more photos (Sorry had to surf it). A local (Jack Johnson – who rips by the way) told me that on a epic day it breaks all the way down to Gas Chambers (that’s about 400 metres away). Love to see that.
Looks like you have waves back home also…nice. Back soon…
Yep. Still here. Here in Hawaii that is.
The weather gods have been kind and there has been plenty of cranking waves.
Bet you didn’t know:
Hawaii is the 50th state of America. It was the last to join and is dubbed the fittest state in the USA. That’s because everyone is surfing all day and not working.
It’s GoPro mecca here. Everyone has one. Self poles, selfie helmuts, selfie boards, GoPros in mouths, armpits and in between toes. It is mental. Nick Woodman (owner of GoPro) even just bought a huge block of land at Rockies for the bargain price of 8 mil.
96712 is the North Shore’s postcode
Robin’s Nest (Magnum P.I.s residence) is on the East Coast with many other very large houses. I think it’s still for sale for a cool 15 million.
Everyone drives a V8 pickup truck and there is no recycling on the North Shore. Yes, you read right.
Coffee making is not one of America’s talents.