'Bergs baking corner

B-ROLL

I don’t want to hear any complaints about the current weather sitch. You’ve had more than your fair share of beaming summer’s days kids! Now it’s time to wash the salt off and knuckle down to some work. It’s raining, today, tomorrow, the weekend and into next week. Waves – small 1-2 footers at Bondi […]

See full post & more photographs
Loner in the tropics

Mixed Bag

Today’s a hybrid, a mixed bag between Bondi, Curly and Mentawais. There’s no correlation between these locations, they’re just some JPGs lying around on my desktop from recent shoots. A rainy, cold, junkie day is a great opportunity to show a mixed bag. I’d expect to see waves above 4 foot today at Bondi, but it’s going […]

See full post & more photographs
Lay days aren’t such a bad thing up here!Lay days aren’t such a bad thing up here!

Thunders

May, June, July are usually the best months to come to the Mentawais for surfing. It’s when all the winter storms down near the roaring 40s, 50s and 60s kick in, dispersing swell in this direction. I won’t lie, this trip we’ve had a consistent run of 3-5 foot days and beautiful weather – nothing […]

See full post & more photographs
Tumultuous weather in Mentawais, sunny one minute, overcast the next.

Holey Moley

6 things you may not know about the Mentawais (where I am right now): In 1983 the archipelago of Mentawai was discovered as a surfing destination by salvage diver, west Aussie, Martin Daly. The first wave he surfed was Debuts, at the most southern tip of the islands (coincidently where we just slept the night). […]

See full post & more photographs
Karl Page, under cover and under pressure, Mentawais

The Bush

I’ve been out to the Mentawais 17 times now on these boats. Why? The surf is amazing. Full stop. For consistency and diversity of waves, I can’t think of another destination that compares. Admittedly, it’s not for every surfer, most waves are breaking on sharp shallow reefs and offer dreamy tubes…but it can get dangerous […]

See full post & more photographs
Sammy with plenty of wall to work with

Keyser’s

We’re up in the Mentawais, a group of islands off the coast of Sumatra, Indonesia. Plenty of swell and the islands have been lighting up. After surfing 7 different breaks in 48 hours we opted for a slow session at a beach break away from the crowds. It turned on nicely. No official name for […]

See full post & more photographs
Watch a tight 1 min movie from my recent trip to Tahiti

Bondi Storm

Today’s storm was giving me a bit of a hard time on my morning dawdle. The rain was intermittent, winds were howling onshore 20-30 knots. The beach was pretty empty – the surf was terrible. It will be like this for a couple of days so hang in there and be productive. If there is […]

Aquabumps Tahiti Video 2018
Some of the best waves I saw all year, June 19, Mentawais.

Last Dance

I’ve been waiting for an ugly Bondi morning to showcase our last hurrah in Mentawais. Today’s it! After an unimpressive 10 seconds down at Bondi Beach this morning I resorted to a coffee and direct route to the gallery. In my quick beach scan, I saw a super junkie 3-foot rainy mess out there. Really not […]

See full post & more photographs
Adrian Shortland snug inside, Mentawais

Indo Magic

I won’t mess with words, Indonesia has been pumping this week. Why so good? Well, there’s been a constant supply of swell. Nice long period stuff all the way from the roaring forties down near Antarctica. Most days are 4 foot plus with a few beefy 8-10 foot days this week. Broke 2 boards in […]

See full post & more photographs
Paradise found, plenty of these empty beaches still here

Tick Tock

Wind and waves are going to be at their best in The Mentawais this week (so I’ve been told). We’ve been in a holding pattern for a couple of days waiting for the new swells to fill in. Still surfing daily, just not much over 3-4 foot. Still, plenty to do outside surfing around here. […]

See full post & more photographs
Mentawai hollows, falling straight into a pit.

Variable

The winds have gone light, and swell magnets are starting to fire. (In Mentawai Islands that is). Mentawais are an archipelago of surf rich islands that hug the south coast of Sumatra, Indonesia. The area is famous for its barrels, as nearly all waves are on shallow coral reefs. People come from all over the globe […]

See full post & more photographs
Cameron Hoy, our duck diving specialist. Mentawais

Below

Our Mentawai voyage is off to a slow start this year. That’s cool; it can’t pump every day here. An off day in The Ments is head high anyway…that eases the jolt from our training grounds; the Bondi Beach rip bowls to these hollow coral reef breaks. There is still plenty of other things to do […]

See full post & more photographs

A Good Day…

I am having a good day. Currently I’m on the 39 metre Ratu Motu parked up against one of the most beautiful islands on this planet. I’ve been here many times…it’s a favourite. A right hander wraps the island producing 300-400 metre rides. It’s really quite ridiculous. The stuff you dream of. Then the water is always […]

See full post & more photographs