Yardies, Ningaloo

Deluge

Hey, you made it! All the way down the bottom of this email to the actual editorial. Good on you! It’s bucketing down in Sydney today. It hasn’t stopped. Let’s hope it’s raining in all the right places to fill up our dams. They need it. I wasn’t feeling inspired down the beach this morning, […]

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Machined for your riding pleasure

Indo Swim

You can swim for hours up here. The water is ultra-warm and crystal clear. Typically there are no rips, even in big surf. Usually, there’s a safe channel for paddling out alongside most breaks – that makes shooting a sinch. The Indo surf season is now kicking off and a large south swell is due next […]

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Harry Bryant, jungle punt. Mentawais

Pro Cameo

We had a quiet little surf on a fun left in the southern end of the Mentawais. We took turns on sets – all scoring. There was no wind, it was hot, and the waves were head high with sets in the head’n’half range. It was just us… An hour into our session, the Sibon […]

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The island wrap, Southern Mentawais

Le Gauche

Indonesia is the land of the left-handers. Indo’s orientation to the great swells from the Indian Ocean means they break left more than right. A goofy footer’s paradise. I reckon we surf 4 lefts to every right. I’m a natural footer! Our bump in swell is dropping and the swell magnets are still putting on a show. […]

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Shorty, slotted. Mentawai Islands, Indonesia

Ignite

Hey, how are you? 2 weeks ago, we saw a swell on the charts that would coincide with the middle of our boat trip. And yep, it arrived right on time and produced the goods. Mentawais has ignited. Waves are pulsing, and the boats are spreading out to their favourite reefs. We’ve surfed all day […]

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Not a bad spot to spend the arvo! Indonesia

Ombak Tidur

Ombak tidur…the waves have gone to sleep. We’re up here in Mentawais awaiting an inbound swell. Usually, in May, we cop a heap of big surf that is fed by the storms down below Western Australia in The Roaring 40s. The swell charts show promise and the boys on the boat are getting’ twitchy. We’ve had […]

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Small, but still hollow. Adrian Shortland behind the curtain

Telos

Hi. I’m in Indonesia for my annual surf-infused junket and loving it! We’re surfing the dregs of that swell that hit Bali for the WSL finals, and I won’t lie, it’s now small. When it’s small you can hit the exposed beaches which seem to always have a head high wave…and they’re so hollow. Not […]

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'Bergs baking corner

B-ROLL

I don’t want to hear any complaints about the current weather sitch. You’ve had more than your fair share of beaming summer’s days kids! Now it’s time to wash the salt off and knuckle down to some work. It’s raining, today, tomorrow, the weekend and into next week. Waves – small 1-2 footers at Bondi […]

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Loner in the tropics

Mixed Bag

Today’s a hybrid, a mixed bag between Bondi, Curly and Mentawais. There’s no correlation between these locations, they’re just some JPGs lying around on my desktop from recent shoots. A rainy, cold, junkie day is a great opportunity to show a mixed bag. I’d expect to see waves above 4 foot today at Bondi, but it’s going […]

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Lay days aren’t such a bad thing up here!Lay days aren’t such a bad thing up here!

Thunders

May, June, July are usually the best months to come to the Mentawais for surfing. It’s when all the winter storms down near the roaring 40s, 50s and 60s kick in, dispersing swell in this direction. I won’t lie, this trip we’ve had a consistent run of 3-5 foot days and beautiful weather – nothing […]

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Tumultuous weather in Mentawais, sunny one minute, overcast the next.

Holey Moley

6 things you may not know about the Mentawais (where I am right now): In 1983 the archipelago of Mentawai was discovered as a surfing destination by salvage diver, west Aussie, Martin Daly. The first wave he surfed was Debuts, at the most southern tip of the islands (coincidently where we just slept the night). […]

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Karl Page, under cover and under pressure, Mentawais

The Bush

I’ve been out to the Mentawais 17 times now on these boats. Why? The surf is amazing. Full stop. For consistency and diversity of waves, I can’t think of another destination that compares. Admittedly, it’s not for every surfer, most waves are breaking on sharp shallow reefs and offer dreamy tubes…but it can get dangerous […]

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Sammy with plenty of wall to work with

Keyser’s

We’re up in the Mentawais, a group of islands off the coast of Sumatra, Indonesia. Plenty of swell and the islands have been lighting up. After surfing 7 different breaks in 48 hours we opted for a slow session at a beach break away from the crowds. It turned on nicely. No official name for […]

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