23 years
Twenty-three years ago, I had this groundbreaking idea of posting a ‘photo a day’ from the beach. Social media hadn’t even been dreamt up yet, a website called google had just started, and mobile phones were for talking to people. In the nineties, digital cameras had just become semi-affordable (well, kind of – the first […]
Aloha Storm
Welcome back to Hawaii, the land of Aloha. The best thing about being on an island during a 50-year storm is that you can always escape to another side for protection from the gale force winds and 30-foot surf. Volcanes work well as a shield! At 5 pm today the swell buoys registered 38.4 feet (@17 […]
Terabytic Discovery
These soggy rainy Sydney days are a great opportunity to dig through the Terabytes of shots taken on recent trips. If I stopped shooting I feel I would have enough supply to show you something every day, for years! (Don’t worry, I am not going anywhere – I love shooting, you know it). Grab a […]
Gums
Gums is a little patch of reef that sits right next to Pipeline. It’s kinda like the Kiddies Corner of Pipe. I see toddlers paddling into waves there all the time – Jon Jon probably surfed it when he was 2 (right out front of his house). When it’s big Gums turns into a drowning […]
96712
Yep. Still here. Here in Hawaii that is. The weather gods have been kind and there has been plenty of cranking waves. Bet you didn’t know: Hawaii is the 50th state of America. It was the last to join and is dubbed the fittest state in the USA. That’s because everyone is surfing all day […]
Trades
It’s been big and onshore here in Hawaii. Today is the first day in quite some time that the wind has gone back to it’s traditional trades. Very strange conditions for this time of year. Oahu still has plenty to do when the surf ain’t cranking…it’s an amazing island. Don’t forget it’s Valentines tomorrow…come visit […]
Bitchin
I’ve made my annual pilgrimage to the Mecca of surfing, Hawaii’s North Shore. I like it here. I hope you do too as the next few weeks of Aquabumps is going to be broadcasted from the rogue shores of this volcanic fiery island. Upon arrival the surf has been pumping, of course. Not much going […]
Pipe Pro
Did you watch Kelly Slater nail it in the Volcom Pipe Pro yesterday? It was really quite something. The waves were good (finally), around triple head high and very hollow from a new swell. It was Slaters 66th tour win. Not bad for a guy that turns 42 next week. Well he DOES live right […]
B E F O R E
You’ve probably already heard through global news that there is a MONSTER swell hitting the Hawaiian Islands right now. I’m getting messages from all over the place wondering what it looks like here. To be honest I don’t know what all the fuss is about. When I went for my morning coffee down the road, […]
Shack Shaker
The big swell has arrived in Hawaii and I can hear water rushing under the house as I write this. Yep you read right, our shack is built on jetty piles and wash gets under the house and sometimes into the backyard. This doesn’t make for a good night’s rest with all the rumbling and […]
North Shore
Good morning from Aloha land. Since we last talked the swell has picked up from 2-3 foot to 6-8 foot Hawaiian…and it’s coming in strong. That big, inbound mack-daddy-swell is definintely starting to file in. By Friday it will be huge. Still not big enough for the Eddie! The winds are up and from the […]
Kaimana
The Hawaiian word/name ‘Kaimana’ translates into English as “The Power of the Ocean”…and it can also represent the English word ‘Diamond’. Both translations apply to the surf conditions lately. The North Pacific has lit up with a double banger swell over the past few days. Pipeline has been a mental 15 feet with 100+ crew […]
21 Degrees North
I have to say this hasn’t been my standard trip to Hawaii. The weather has been a little funky. Lots of rain and fickle swells with howling winds. Not like the previous few years. The surf is still special…regardless. Water hasn’t been so clear – hence the lack of underwater shots. Today we have wind […]