The big swell has arrived in Hawaii and I can hear water rushing under the house as I write this. Yep you read right, our shack is built on jetty piles and wash gets under the house and sometimes into the backyard. This doesn’t make for a good night’s rest with all the rumbling and water gushing around under you. Especially knowing that plenty of houses on Rocky Point have recently lost their front yards to the ocean (including swimming pools).
The funny thing is that this is just the beginning…tomorrow the swell will peak. It is probably going to be too big for Pipe, Waimea will be working (no Eddie) but most hell men are going across to Maui to surf Jaws. With all my big wave training at Bondi it’s not really my cup of tea but I may fly across to shoot it. They say it will be 15-18 foot Hawaiian (30 foot faces). Next week there is a boomer swell arriving Wednesday. I’m talking 50 foot faces ( 10 times head high!) but I don’t think the winds are right for here.
Back home the weather looks damn fine and small NE swell! Enjoy.
Mahalo :: uge