Rohan giving chase

The Finer Details

Cold out, warm in. Monday’s are the quietest mornings. Very few people snuck down there for the early. Waves? yeah-nah. More nah this morning but more yeah later today when a new swell starts to file in. I’ve been sending out this beach-picture-email-thingie for over 19 years now, if you love it, surely your mates do […]

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They say the first rays of the days are good for your health


Geez, the waves turned on yesterday. It’s slowed right down today, but it’s still surfable. Beautiful sun filled morning with the enormous crew out for the early. Boogies, Mals, hungry short boarders – and yep, our resident foil boarder were all out – ready to send you to hospital. 4 per wave, leggies tangled…the full […]

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Set a drift, Bondi beach 7am this morning


It was a massive weekend in Bondi for waves, sun, crowds, antics and activations.  Waves – all weekend we had super fun waves, but the swell has gone baby gone now. Sun – yesterday was a cracker beach day, hope you got some. Felt like peak summer heat. Crowds/Antics – my gosh, Bondi was a […]

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Body bash dumpers, South Bondi

Spinal Tap

You’ve heard me mention the dire situation of our Bondi sandbanks for surfers… well… I was hoping the Bulldozers would come south and throw us a bone – no such luck. The Dozer work completed on North Bondi has seemed to make the shoreline even steeper (if that is possible) – what that means for swimmers […]

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Good light and men in Lycra


Usually when there is a 13 second, 3-4 foot south swell and offshore winds I have some fantastic waves to shoot. The forecast was a dud – a nonevent – didn’t happen. I can hear the crowd booing, cars are being over turned on the streets and riot police on high alert. What happened? Where […]

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Shorey Beater

After a hot sleepless night you probably found yourself down the beach, early. It was the hottest November night in four years. Sticky wasn’t it? At 5:30am Bondi Beach looked like the Pitt Street Mall. The waves have been quartered…and it was pretty much a shorey. Whilst it’s roasting out, the water temp plummeted in […]

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Hi there…damn chilly down there this morning before the sun came up. Only 7 degrees. The sand felt like ice. To my surprise there were a few waves on offer from a NE swell. Huge lulls, but easily a chest high wave and very few people out there. Gotta love winter. I swam early…and the […]

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winter denial

Salubrious weather at the moment (big word for Monday I know). Its winter, but we’re pretending its midsummer – especially up the North Coast of NSW where the water is warmer and there isn’t a cloud in the sky. The waves could be better, swell seems to be hitting Sydney cleaner than up here…. we’ve […]

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