The toe drag, Bondi Beach 7am

Clearing

How good is this rain! It’s been pretty consistent. The good news is that the winds have tapered off and we now have clean conditions for wave riders. I saw head-high waves this morning, operating on two sandbanks. Crowds were thin as most frothers hit the snooze button. It is not perfect, but surfable for […]

See full post & more photographs
Regardless of today, summer is coming...

Bondi Moods

Today is definitely not a beach day. Nope, not even close. The waves looked dreary, onshore, manky, junky and brown! Rain is pouring and this will continue for a couple of days. That’s OK, I truly hope it’s helping with the northern fires and drought conditions. It’s cold, I’ve got the old puffer on. Bunker […]

See full post & more photographs
Tyson Millar. He's 6'5" - just so you can gauge size of the wave

Diamonds in the Rough

It’s cleaned up a lot and still pretty sizey. I saw sets in the 4-5 foot range at South Bondi. The swell is now from the SE, and we have favourable winds from the WNW direction at 8 knots. The ocean still has plenty of wonk from its recent agitation – well, it has been […]

See full post & more photographs
Tamarama at sunrise, 6:34am

Junk in the Trunk

Like the ocean, I’m confused. There’s swell (east), and it’s 3 foot, but it seems to be all over the shop. The ocean has a heap of junk on it. It appears to be onshore, but you can’t feel the wind. It’s still. So, once the ocean wipes off some of this morning sickness, it could […]

See full post & more photographs
A protected cove - Tsigrado Beach, Milos

🇬🇷 Milos – Μήλος

Crazy, I know, but I am back in Europe (Part II). This time, in the Aegean Sea on a tiny volcanic paradise island called Milos. Unlike its neighbouring islands of the Cyclades (Mykonos, Santorini), Milos isn’t all about partying. It’s mellow…no $500 lobster pastas on the menu, few superyachts and less bling. The beaches here aren’t […]

See full post & more photographs
Check out some of Mallorca's top beaches

Friday Entertainment

It’s Friday and an early morning appointment didn’t allow me to shoot at sunrise – so I snapped a few during the middle of the day. Icebergs was sparkling clean and producing some serious blues. The surf is flat anyway… And so…let’s watch a 2-minute movie from my recent trip to Mallorca hey? Some incredible […]

Watch
Chris Chicken Little, set heaven

Four to Five

Well, Alluelia…looky what we have here today. S W E L L. The good stuff. Stuff from the south and around 4 foot. A small was crowd enjoying the fruits of a new swell at sunrise. The offshores were keeping it neat and tidy, and sometimes hollow. So good to see swell after a rather […]

See full post & more photographs
Heading out

Corker

Yet again, another winter corker. Fortunately, the swell spiked up a bit. Clean air, clear skies, warm water – the whole bit. I’ve got this week’s Episode 3 ready to go, all filmed around here by yours truly. Every Friday I will try to release a short film summarising the week just gone. Grab a cuppa, […]

See full post & more photographs

Friday Fix

Two weeks ago we did a road trip through some of New Zealand’s spectacular beaches with our guide, Kiwi surf legend, Maz Quinn. N-Zed is such a under-rated surf destination with so many good setups, I’ll be back for sure. The photos I took on the roadie were very popular with you all, so I […]

See full post & more photographs