Standby

Nice morning. Shame the waves were once again small and weak. Grey dominated the skies and the water surfaces were silky smooth. It doesn’t look like there will be any memorable swells this weekend. Maybe a flap around on the fish or mal. Next week, well, next weeks a different story. Something cooking mid-week. Until […]

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Mals only

The past two days have been small, this morning is micro. Group of mal riders in the middle enjoying a 1 foot peak and shallow bank. Such a nice morning nonetheless…a real treat to be swimming around as the sun came up behind Benny Buckler. Tengirri If you want to go to the Mentawais and […]

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Not much

Like most other mornings I rolled down the hill to see what was on offer down the beach. ‘Not much’ pretty much sumed it up. It was still and quiet, the rain persuading most to stay in bed for the late sunrise. A small, rideable, weak and flimsy 1-2 footer wave broke inconsistently at South […]

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: : B l a z e

I wait patiently for these types of mornings… Sometimes we get nothing for 2 months, sometimes a year goes by without any hint of gold. Every morning I stick my head out through the blinds looking for that thin high cloud with a gap along the horizon…something that will really turn on…and 9.9 times out […]

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Darko

Good morning… The sun broke through super late as we edge closer to a time switch. There was a couple of floppy 2 footers around, not really worth getting excited over. You can feel the claws of winter in the morning air…it’s coming. See if you can swim faster than one of Australia’s most famous […]

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Stealth

These photos are from yesterday afternoon. Nothing wrong with today, in fact it’s a cracker outside with good waves, but yesterday was really really good fun. Yesterday was one of those days that snuck in under the radar. Most surfers fooled by the morning howl and threatening grey skies. Around lunchtime the swell had a […]

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Downgrade

Today is an in between day. A day that is not a patch on yesterday. The wind was howling early SE and making a mess of exposed beaches. The swell is not big enough to get into protected corners…so it is a good day to do something else. Maybe something indoors as it looks like […]

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I’d rather be…

I crashed the car, I ate some bad chicken last night, she dumped me, I’m locked out of my apartment (since yesterday), my best friend is getting married, there’s a big client over north side that is close to signing… …these are all plausible excuses to wag work and go for a drive to find […]

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Burner

Hope you saw the sunrise this morning. It was quite something. Late too – 7am. So you don’t have to be a insomniac to see it. From the car park it looked like a little bank at South Bondi had something to surf. I swam out there with my camera to give it a close […]

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Blew

I’m back… Back from Singapore and a week off these daily photo updates. If you’re passing through Singas or live there, my exhibition will be hanging on the walls of the Tanjong Beach Club (Sentosa) for a few more weeks. Back to Bondi – the wind (20 knots) was up very early and the sun […]

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Singapore ding-a-ling

I had a small operation last week. Don’t worry… I’ll live. It’s nothing really, just something chopped out of my leg that was looking suss. After the good doctor made his extraction he said “Now you know you’ll have to keep out of the water for 4 days – no exceptions…” After he said that…I […]

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Chunky

After the skies cleared around lunchtime yesterday the surf really turned on. Probably one of the best days for surfing this year. The good times continue today with 6-8 footers at Bronte. It looks a little wonky this morning, but shaping up to be a great day. Have a long lunch. Not many places can […]

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Boom

It is bucketing down this morning. I won’t dwell on that. I sat in the Bondi car park with Birdie around 7am watching 4-5 footers chug into Bondi – not a soul around. No one surfing. It actually looked surfable, just need some night vision goggles. I think we could all do with a bit […]

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Flow

The wind has set in and it’s knocking the tops off the 2 footers at Bondi. Really ugly surf conditions down there this morning…definitely give it a miss. I gather most of you slept in as not many people were around. The swell will grow later tonight and stand tall at 6 foot tomorrow, protected […]

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Early Blow

Today kicked off well…thin fragmented clouds highlighted by the early morning sun. Real nice. South wind was in early, blowing quite strong and choppin’ up anything worth riding. Bondi had a 1-2 foot shorey that you could get going on…but not worth racing out of bed for. Soak up the sunshine before the storm arrives […]

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The Goods

Today has a lot going for it… We have waves, a little gutless, but fun 3 footers. They’re coming in from the East-Nor-East which neglects Bondi so a drive in the car is imperative. Bondi was only 1-2 foot. The skies are clear…yep, we have sunshine and a forecast of 26 degrees. Sadly, by the […]

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The Big Wet

It is raining. Again. Better get used to it as rain is forecasted for the next 3 days, heavy. Taking pictures in the rain ain’t much fun. To start with, no one is around to shoot. Secondly your camera gear (that you mortgaged the house for) doesn’t like the rain. So… …let’s go back to […]

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Dank

The strange muggy weather continues today. At least it’s damp with 2-3 footers. Bondi was nice and clean and relatively uncrowded for a weekday morning. I saw a few nice ones in the middle and in the corner. I am hoping tomorrow will be bigger and better. It’s gonna rain later and for the rest […]

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