B A N A N A

We’ve escaped the cool waters of the Mid-North Coast and landed 3 hours north, at Banana Coast – or better known as Coffs Harbour. Never been here before and plenty of surf options with bays facing all directions. The swell is still NE and so is the wind so Northern corners are the go.
The floods up here have been pretty bad, road closures and plenty of destruction around Kempsey. The weather is fine up here today but sounds like a storm is brewing for tomorrow.
Next stop, Byron Bay (good for the southerlies!)
Later : : u g e

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S U M M E R F R O S T

The best thing about a drive up the coast is that you basically keep driving until you find waves. There are just so many options along the East Coast. Mid-week is also a bonus (and out of Skool Hols) as most beaches are relatively deserted. Yep, the best time of year as its still summer. The water however is ridiculously cold due to that Northerly blowing for days (arctic). The East swell marathon continues and you’re probably not getting much into Bondi. Maroubra and Manly would have more. Chest to head high up here, somewhere on the coast between Sydney and Snapper Rocks..
Seeyouse : : u g e
P.S. How good was the sunrise this morning.

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R O A D I E

Howdy…we’re on the road. The Road to the Pro that is…all 844 kilometres of coastal highways from Sydney to Snapper Rocks. I’ve never done this drive in one continuous trip. I’m excited about finding a few waves along the way that fall into the cracks and particularly uncrowded ones (Bondi does get a lil’ hectic). There must be hundreds of beaches between the two states and you’re coming along for the drive.
We surfed a fun beachie this morning that was exposed to the North swell. Water temperature dropped dramatically overnight – think we packed a little light on wetties.
Back in the car…
Seeya : : u g e

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S A V A G E

That was one hell of a storm that blew over on the weekend. Brutal. Saturday night I thought I was going to be roofless. The swell was rogue for most of the weekend and you needed to seek protected corners to find a wave. Balmoral and the harbour even had waves.
The swell is dropping fast and the sunshine has returned thankfully. Bondi has new bank setups and is much smaller than exposed breaks but cleaner. Going to be warm today with 29 degrees.
R O A D T O T H E P R O
Our good buddies at Land Rover have entrusted us with a couple of shiny new 4wds to drive all the way up to Queensland to kick off the 1st world tour stop at Snapper next weekend. 6 of us will be doing the iconic drive up the east coast, 3 of em are shredders. We have no plan – just chasing swell. You’ll see, you’re coming…
A d i o s : : u g e

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B L O W U P

The swell has arrived but so has that pesty SE onshore wind. Sometimes onshore Bondi can be kinda fun, no crowds, little more push but I reckon too much blow today…wait ‘til she settles.
Tomorrow is going to be REALLY windy (30 knots) and wet…Sunday the winds should kick around to the NE and provide some cleaner conditions.
Today is your last opportunity to enter our ROAD TO THE PRO photographic competition. Some great entries in there so far…
Seeyouse :: uge

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B O W L S

There’s some NE swell on its way to Sydney. I was thinking it might have come up a bit more this morning than it did. Bondi was 2 foot and very wind affected with an early morning SE onshore. Ok, it was junk. Maybe in a few more hours she’ll improve? Pray.
Kinda hot day with 27 degrees, scattered clouds.
Bondi Bowl-a-Rama skate comp is on this weekend. Always a big one and you’ll see plenty of ink riddled, high sock wearing international big names flippin’ around the hood.
Our friends at THE MENS SHOP are giving Aquabumps readers a chance to win $250 voucher, just go here.
Later honks :: uge

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T R A N S I T I O N

It poured around 6:00am today. That’s normally when I start rolling down the beach. Hard to believe that now seeing it’s just gone perfectly sunny. I mean seriously, take a look out the window – it’s a beach cracker (max 26).
The waves were pretty lacklustre this morning. Something dribbling in the south end but I really wasn’t that inspired. Waist high perhaps.
Last night we had all the big names in surfing in Bondi (Bucket List) to launch FuelTVs big year of surfing where they’re broadcasting every tour stop. How good is that. Fuel up.
Later :: yooj

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P I P E L I K E

I can draw a lot of parallels between Banzai Pipeline and Bondi today:

The water was a salubrious 24 degrees…very similar temperature to Hawaii. In fact I’d go as far as saying it’s the best temperature I’ve felt in the Bondi water for a long, long time.
The crowd was huge…just like Pipeline @ 6am there was 50 hopefuls awaiting a set at sunrise.
Danger – oh boy, Pipe is one of the most dangerous breaks in the world – Bondi is the same at 1-2 foot with cruise missile mals (be)heading your way ready to put you into hospital.
La Femme – so many girls in the water today…just like Hawaii where it’s a national sport. Good to see.
I got barrelled. Ok, maybe just my camera got barrelled this morning at Bondi on the 12 inch shorey…but a tube is a tube.

Be great if the weather could stay stable for at least 5 minutes so I know what to wear.
:: u g e

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C O N F U S E D

Good morning. The weather can’t seem to make its mind up today. At sunrise it was all golden and warm…looking to be a good beach day. Then it rained on and off around 4 times in 1 hour. Now it seems we’re settling into a grey one – damp. Winds are NE and the surf is clean, but really small. After a fun filled surf weekend it’s now knee to waist high.
There is a really big swell arriving this Friday – now that’s exciting.
Seeya, : :uge

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C O L O U R

After a colourful start we’ve settled into a grey old rainy Sydney day. There are waves in the head high+ vicinity but there is nothing for them to break on. Sometimes I wish we had a small reef in the middle of the bay that peeled left and right…the sand banks are pretty straight today so set waves close out. Go for a drive – somewhere else would be good down the coast with this swell.
R O A D T O T H E P R O
I know a lot of you that read Aquabumps are interested in photography – addictive ain’t it. I’ve seen you down the beach or your send me your pics to check out. Here’s your chance to enter them in a competition we are holding in conjunction with our buddies at Land Rover…and you could win a trip to the 1st tour stop of the year, the Snapper Rocks Quiksilver Pro. You have to enter your pics via this Facebook page.
S U R F A I D B A L L
The Surfaid Ball is on 15th March 2013 and there are still tables available. It’s a great night. Aquabumps has a table! C’mon and get some mates together and come along. BUY TIX
Seeya, : : u g e

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N E L S O N

For something a lil’ different I was loitering around Bronte Pool this morning. Nice down there at sunrise. Not many waves at Bronte as Bondi had all the action. The swell came up as expected, approximately waist to chest high. Looks very weak…so ride something with a high volume of foam. Beautiful day to match, so slide down for a dip.
Jack McCoy’s new film “A Deeper Shade of Blue” is playing at the Bondi Open Air Cinema next Tuesday 19th Feb at 7pm. The big fella himself (Jack) is going to be there and loves signing autographs…so don’t miss this one night only opportunity. BUY TIX
Happy Valentine’s Day ladies…
Seeya : : u g e

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Motherland

Ah yes, I am back in Bondi. Good to be home. Was getting sick of 10 footers (jokes).
Bondi looked real spesh all lit up at sunrise. Nice hues streaming in through Benny Buckler. Waves weren’t too flash, a dribbly knee high wave.
Fortunately there is a little spike in swell tomorrow and Friday. Hopefully something good will come of it.
Did you watch our short movie made around here? What’d ya think?
I threw in some Hawaii shots that I took just before leaving town…
Ciao : : u g I o
PS – We still have a desk in our Bondi Aquabumps office available for rent, $150 per week. Available now, need 6 month commitment. Interested?

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Kaimana

The Hawaiian word/name ‘Kaimana’ translates into English as “The Power of the Ocean”…and it can also represent the English word ‘Diamond’. Both translations apply to the surf conditions lately.
The North Pacific has lit up with a double banger swell over the past few days. Pipeline has been a mental 15 feet with 100+ crew out. Tempers were flaring and the ambulances were frequent. 2nd and 3rd reefs have been washing through, occasionally with nuts on 11 foot Rhino chasers. Lots of sand in the channel so the end to your tubes can be a little abrupt (and painful).
I’ve shot around 30 gig a day lately…still sifting through all my files. I look out the window now and finally the swells are tapering off (and the rain settling in) – time to leave the islands. Love this joint.
We’ve been working hard on the sequel to our Aquabumps Summer Moments videos presented by PERONI. Our first short film found epic waves in Italy, not your regular surf destination, and now…drum roll…here’s Part II filmed around our home beaches of Bondi, Bronte and Tama. Watch Videos Now
C i a o : : u g e

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Wet

It’s small here in Hawaii, like Bondi today…but a thumper is on the way tomorrow. That’s exciting. Wish we had all this swell in our summer. Smaller conditions meant I could swim around underwater; early…most people don’t get to the beach before 9am here. Very different to Bondi (keep in mind it is winter here, sunrise is 7:00am)
There is always people surfing, which makes sense as the sport was born here. You can’t distinguish between weekday crowds and weekends. The surf etiquette is high. The cruisy island spirit rubs off into the surf – I’ve seen very little agro – ok, Pipe is an exception – but the rest is fine.
A few of you have emailed me asking if I am ever come home to Bondi Beach. Well, it’s been a month…maybe should start thinking about it.
Seeya : : u g e

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21 Degrees North

I have to say this hasn’t been my standard trip to Hawaii. The weather has been a little funky. Lots of rain and fickle swells with howling winds. Not like the previous few years. The surf is still special…regardless. Water hasn’t been so clear – hence the lack of underwater shots.
Today we have wind making Pipeline mushy…so all I see now is airs. The level of surfing here is amazing. I’ve been watching John John Florence a lot (he lives a few houses up). He’s 20 years old, just won his first comp for the year and it surfing on another level. He has one of the best back hand tubes in the world (handy on the tour – think Chopes), can do all the tricks in the air with Dane, has powerful rail turns and is glued to his board. World title for sure.
More useless information gathered on the golden mile : Jamie O’Brien grew up in the house that John John lives in now with his Mom. MomJohn. And Kelly Slater lives next door to John John (never see him really – must love computer games). Slats has a tiny Chihuahua dog called ‘Action’. Didn’t pick him for a Chihuahua type of guy. Captain Cook was killed here in a fight with the locals (1779). Hawaii is the most isolated land mass in the world…the nearest mainland some 2,400 miles away. That’s why everything is a little more expensive here…most things have to be imported. Cars are ridiculously cheap here. Half the price of Oz.
Another favourite spot of mine, The Mentawai Islands off Sumatra, is under siege by bombing fishermen. I can’t believe this still goes on. They’re taking avantage of the off season when no one is around and lobbing bombs into the water, decimating the reefs…in order to collect the fish that float to the surface. Madness! Watch this video…if I could show you that beach that they’re doing it on, which is in my top 5 beaches in the world…you’d be so disturbed. Sign the petition please. The Indo officials aren’t doing anything…
Enough ramble, I am pretty sure many of you wouldn’t have made it this far down the page! : : u g e

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S-p-a-m

Hawaiians love eating canned S*p]am (Spicy Ham). You can tell by the size of sales display at Foodland. In fact Hawaiians consume the most S*p]am per capita in the United States (if not the world). Bet you didn’t know that. There’s even a S*p]am cook book here…mmmmm. Now that I’ve informed you of that useless information, let’s talk waves.
We have no waves here in Hawaii’s North Shore. She’s gone flat. Someone flicked the switch. Won’t be long until is pipes up again..2 swells due this week.
Back home looks like you have really good waves – oh, and you copped a heap of rain…good weather on its way today.
On the 15th March 2013 Surfaid are holding their annual fund raising ball. It’s a great night, I go every year. This year is at The Star…get some buddies together and book a table.
Seeya :: uge
P.S. There is a full time job going at Aquabumps, if you sound like this person send us a cv

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Blue Hawaii

There is another large swell heading for Hawaii today…probably the 4th big one I’ve seen in 3 weeks. There is no shortage…
Today they kicked off the Volcom Pipe Pro in anticipation of that inbound swell. Currently its 6-8 foot, overcast and a bit wobbly – that should change. Watch it live
Not all these images were taken today, some from a big swell last week.
Here is some random information about Hawaii that you may not know. Banzai Pipeline was named by film maker Bruce Brown (Endless Summer) in the 60’s as there was a construction project when he once arrived working on the underground pipeline adjacent to the Kamehameha Highway (and obviously the shape of the wave). The beach is called Banzai…so the two joined to form its current name. Elvis loved Hawaii and made 3 films here including Blue Hawaii. Haole is a word used in Hawaii to describe non-Hawaiians, mainly white people – it’s not flattering to be called one. 1.3 million peeps live in Hawaii, most are on Oahu…their origins are a blend of Pacific Islanders, Japanese, Filipino, Chinese and Mexicans. Pineapples are well respected. Obama calls Hawaii home. Petrol is much cheaper than Oz (they still drive 6 litre v8s here – so it has to be). Oh and there are waves here that don’t require you to be a pro…but you want to be fit and comfortable in the ocean as it’s incredibly powerful and the rips are like wild rapids.
Enough for today class, signing off : : u g e

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