Mount Athos

Today is the best day of the year to go surfing as the Melbourne Cup is on (no one down the beach). Shame the waves are tiny around here. It’s a NE swell, so Manly, Whaley or Maroubra would have sumpin’…like waist to chest high wind swell waves. It is going to be 27 degrees […]

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All Time

Ok ok, the surf’s not ‘all time’ but everything else this morning was working quite nicely. Let’s begin with the colour spray sunrise at 6:00am above Ben Buckler. One of its finest. Thin cloud lit up like a bomb fire…then how about the water…it’s 24 degrees and warmer in than out. No wetties required…spend hours […]

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l a t e

A pink glow seeped under my bedroom blind…and I knew it was going to be a cracker morning. What a shame it was all over by the time I donned the boxers and rolled down the hill with one eye sealed. For the next hour I was questioned by the early risers “did ya get […]

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ground swell

It’s big and gettin’ bigger. By far the largest swell we’ve had here in months…and it’s NOT really surfable at Bondi. 6 foot + and closing out most of the bay. I saw a rogue set break so far out the back it was quite impressive – must of touched the 8 foot range. For […]

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