Tamarama at sunrise, 6:34am

Junk in the Trunk

Like the ocean, I’m confused. There’s swell (east), and it’s 3 foot, but it seems to be all over the shop. The ocean has a heap of junk on it. It appears to be onshore, but you can’t feel the wind. It’s still. So, once the ocean wipes off some of this morning sickness, it could […]

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Wave layers, Bondi Beach 6:30am

Fresh

The current east swell has dropped a gear. An early morning low tide was closing out most waves at Bondi during sunrise. Every now and then a shoulder-high set will limp in, but it’s not unreal. Just surfable. Fantastic conditions, light offshores, perfectly sunny. Like yesterday, another cracker day to be outside in Sydney. Have […]

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A protected cove - Tsigrado Beach, Milos

🇬🇷 Milos – Μήλος

Crazy, I know, but I am back in Europe (Part II). This time, in the Aegean Sea on a tiny volcanic paradise island called Milos. Unlike its neighbouring islands of the Cyclades (Mykonos, Santorini), Milos isn’t all about partying. It’s mellow…no $500 lobster pastas on the menu, few superyachts and less bling. The beaches here aren’t […]

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Prickly Silver-back, Bondi

Tubular

The moons have aligned, the winds have calmed, the seas have settled. Bondi was looking pretty tasty at sunrise with hollow opportunities running on multiple banks. But…as the tide flooded in, quality dropped and it looks very straight now. (Which is confusing as normally high tide has better waves). So there was a little window […]

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Chris Friend, give him a little face, he'll rip it

Runners

It is much smaller today but much prettier. The sun was out, thankfully, as it’s a bit frosty sitting on the beach without solar power. I saw some fun Bondi runners at 1-2 foot range. The banks are sweet so you can flick out the odd turn. It’s far from pumping but definitely surfable. The […]

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Ed Cunningham, single fin, set wave, rake

⚡Bonus Sections

Well…hello. What’s this? A little spike in swell? Bondi had fun waves around the shoulder high range this morning. Very slow and inconsistent, but worthy of a surf. It’s from the dead south – so Bondaka would be showing the most fruit. Chilly 10 knots of westerly will freeze the tootsies on the way back […]

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Benny Buckler and a textured sky

HI-RES

Quiet, warm, small, still… That’s how I’d summarize this morning. Some cool textures in the sky…but that’s about it! All these images, including the long lens shots, are taken with a Phaseone Trichromatic 100mp setup. Not a new camera, something I’ve had in my kit for decades, but usually only rip it out for tripod […]

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Pass jiving. Byron

Double Demerits

Hey, happy new year! 2019 is your year – I know it. Like many people from Sydney, in particular Bondi-ites, we made the summer pilgrimage to the magical Cape Byron. It’s a decent drive and the major A1 upgrade is only half finished – I still can’t believe all that traffic funnels through 50km/hr zones and tiny single lanes. Hectic. […]

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Home. Looking at this, a lotta people live here!

Bucketing

It looks like we’ll hit the quota of 120 millimetres of rain today! Oh man, it’s bucketing down. Think of the good side – the Bondi Parking Cops won’t be patrolling, the garden is loving it and I’ve put my car out on the street for a free wash. The downside – I just can’t […]

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You'll be waiting a while fella.

Clear Skies

Clear skies – happy dayz. What a terrific run on exquisite weather. Waves – tiny peelers, knee high ones. Logs only. Winds – calmed down overnight. For all you soft sand addicts – this years Blooms Bondi Barefoot soft sand race is happening right here in the hood at Bondi Beach on the 24th September. […]

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One of my favourite spots in the world, Waimea jump rock (Shot Aug 8. 2017)

The Rock

A L O H A. How are you? I haven’t posted in a while and you’ll probably figure out why when you see these photos. I’m in Hawaii. (A.K.A. The Rock) My family and I come here a lot, but we’re normally based on the North Shore and in winter. It’s summer here now and […]

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Chris Chicken Little, set heaven

Four to Five

Well, Alluelia…looky what we have here today. S W E L L. The good stuff. Stuff from the south and around 4 foot. A small was crowd enjoying the fruits of a new swell at sunrise. The offshores were keeping it neat and tidy, and sometimes hollow. So good to see swell after a rather […]

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Heading out

Corker

Yet again, another winter corker. Fortunately, the swell spiked up a bit. Clean air, clear skies, warm water – the whole bit. I’ve got this week’s Episode 3 ready to go, all filmed around here by yours truly. Every Friday I will try to release a short film summarising the week just gone. Grab a cuppa, […]

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