Just got off the plane and went for a dawdle down the beach. To put it plainly – it’s an AMAZING DAY outside. The water is a deep emerald colour, it’s offshore (and quite strong), there is a fun little mal riding 2 footer crumbling with the schoolies pack frothin – what more could you […]

Our little junket in the Mentawai’s has come to a close as we set sail for mainland Indonesia. Plenty of waves in the first half of the trip, bit light on in the second – except today where it came up to 4-5 foot on a hollow left. The winds up here have been a […]

The swell is down and the wind is up from the south – a good combo to watch a whole season of Entourage and rest up – not much else to do on a boat at sea with tiny wind chop. It can’t be pumping everyday up here, we’re all surfed out anyway after 7 […]

There’s not much between the Mentawai Islands and the bottom of this planet – just a massive expanse of Indian Ocean between Australia and Africa. This absence of land mass keeps the surf rich waters around these islands crispy blue clear…perfect for a day’s swimming around with your camera. The surf has been good – […]

Well it’s been quite a different trip to the Mentawais this year. There has been plenty of smoking waves to be had…I should mention…in amongst the rain and howling southerly gusts. In 1 day the weather has been changing so much –  you just don’t know what to expect. Some breaks have been on just […]

Yesterday I surfed for around 7 hours – I can barely lift my arms now (yep, it was that good). The swell arrived and some really fun 4 footers were on offer in the Mentawai Islands. Bit of trouble with flukey winds that blow for an hour, then glass off, then blow again. The sought […]

Uge has gone AWOL. We haven’t heard from him this morning. I guess that’s what happens when you’re surfing a million miles from civilisation and living on a boat. We’re so connected these days, I bet it’s nice for the boys to be unplugged for a while… So, today’s report comes from Bondi HQ. It’s […]

We have moved to a part of the Islands called Lances. The swell is still tiny but there are some fun waves around exposed breaks nearby. We still haven’t seen the real perfection that these islands are famous for. Lances area was badly hit by the Tsunami last year – the Bintang village has now […]

So here we are…drifting between islands in search of good waves following swell charts and good weather. It’s been small so far, 3 to 4 foot – with some really small low tide sessions. Windy too which is not normal for this equatorial surf haven. Early this morning we had some sheet glass but just […]

Selmat Pagi. It’s been a long time since I’ve traveled. Around 8 months to be exact (cause we had a baby). The next two weeks the photos are going to be via satellite as we’re in the Mentawais Islands, Indonesia on charter boat Tengirri. It’s paradise here…the waves are 3 foot today, getting bigger in […]

Hurro. What a nice day (again). Yesterday’s healthy 3 foot increase in swell is still here and there’s some really fun waves in town. Bondi was 2-3 foot at sunrise, closing out a little, but multiple peaks doing their thing (it’s nice to have more options along the beach instead of the 1 peak we’ve […]

I’ve written the start to this daily email 3 times and don’t really have anything amazing to say. It’s well, um, 1-2 foot and junkie out there. The good news is that at 6:20am there wasn’t a soul out on the main peak. I’m torkin’ not one human – not even a beginner drifting down […]

This is a public announcement…when surfing, can we limit 1 surfer for each wave. I know this might come as a shock to many that surfed Bondi this morning. But yes, not every wave is a team wave. I don’t think I’ve seen so many drop-ins in such a short period of time ANY where […]

I rolled down this hill this morning and was greeted by Geurbox pulling into a 4 foot Bondi barrel. That’s quite rare for Bondi. It’s cleaned up, winds offshore, sun is out, the swell is still here – oh boy, it’s a really good surf day. Now remember we’re heading into a summer weather pattern, […]

There is a big south swell in town. It’s not lining up so great so Bondi to Bronte weren’t really surfable this morning. No one out. The protected south corner of Maroubra was where everyone gravitated too, but that was a bit wonky or really small as you got deeper into the corner. So you […]

I rolled down the beach this morning hoping that the inbound south swell had maybe come early. It hadn’t, the rain has set in and I shot 3 very ugly photographs from the front seat of my car. It’s only 1-1.5 foot. I’m not even gonna show you those 3 photos – they’re that bad. […]

It’s not looking very inviting out there. Rain, onshores and dribble – chilly too. Today is all about transition from the sunny northerlies to the south storm (which is drawing in a big swell for the weekend). Heads down, work hard and free up some time for tomorrow arvo and weekend when the surf picks […]

We’ve got a full blown east swell which is neglecting Bondi at the moment. You will have to go for a drive to an east facing beach like Maroubra if you want to get wet – even when you get there you’ll only find 2 foot weak waves, but at least it’s sumpin’. Nice weather […]

A superb morning and so many new faces out. Where have you been all winter? Sun was shining, the northerlies blowing, the bootie camps were choccas, the car park full and the waves….the waves were just not happening. There was a little piece of wind chop for the very motivated individuals, but I’d pass. In […]

Can you feel it? Spring…yep, it’s so much warmer this morning at sunrise. Gotta love this time of year…shed those woolies and go for a swim – deluxe 24 today. Looks like a the world surfing tour is gonna have a big week in New York as the top 34 ready for the start of […]

We all know the swell has jacked up this morning – unfortunately so has the wind. Choppy Bondi has 3-4 foot waves this morning. Need that wind to kick around to the north to take the junk out of it. (which should happen tomorrow). High tide is 11:15am, low tide is 5:30pm. Only a wintery […]

Well it wasn’t the best conditions I’ve seen out there. Maybe ‘cause we’ve been spoilt. The left had a wave, yes, that left. It was weak and floppy – say 2 foot. Pretty junkie. The right wasn’t really working in my eyes. Plenty of hopefuls out early. The swell should get bigger today as a […]