Lippy
Things change fast on the North Shore of Hawaii. Woke up, cruzy little 3-4 footer out the front, 2 out – lots of tubes. Ate Special K then shot my favorite shore break for an hour. Stopped in for the world’s largest coffee at Starbucks, wired, then by the time I got back to the […]
Banzai
The waves have been pretty darn good this week in Hawaii. In fact I’ve never been here when it is not cranking – so I just think this is the norm. I arrived 1 week ago and we’ve had 3 chunky swells. The Banzai Pipeline has been 8 foot plus a few times since being […]
Black Shorts
All weekend here in Hawaii they’ve been running the Da Hui Back Door shoot out. All the big names are surfing – Bruce Irons, Jon Jon, Reef Macintosh, Tom Whits, Kalani Chapman just to name a few. It’s a different style of surf comp, teams based, no coloured vests, the new generation and some old […]
Live Aloha
Aloha. We’re in Hawaii. Love it here. We are based on the North Shore and I can see a guy in a Pipe tube as I write this. We’re going to be here a while, for something new and until Sydney stops raining. (wow, heard about them storms last night!) It’s been pumping in Hawaii […]
Mondayitis
This morning sure ain’t pretty. The waves were onshore, sloppy and 2-3 footish. 1 surfer was sniffing around out the back whilst another dude jogs on the beach – that’s about it. The grey weather has scared off everyone. Had some trouble finding inspiration so I defaulted to my recent Hawaiian gold. Needless to say, […]
Pipe
The Banzai Pipeline is a very special place. It’s one of the best left handers in the world full stop. I’ve spent a week staying across the sand from it, watching it’s moods change from angry 12 foot monster closeouts to 3-4 foot cute drainpipes. Pipe has some similarities to Bondi…in that there is ALWAYS […]
Archival Revival
These wet, onshore Sydney mornings give me a good opportunity to sift through archives and find some gold. This morning I worked out that I’ve caught 48 flights this year (no medal please) and covered a lot of ocean from Maldives to Hawaii, shooting thousands of frames, most of which have barely been viewed and […]
T R A D E S
When you think Hawaii you probably envisage pipe 8-10 or Waimea Bay monsters…thinking it’s smokin’ here most of the time. Well late season (now) it’s actually quite fickle. We’ve had a week of howling trades…which is quasi offshore to sideshore but when it’s 30 knots+ most waves are torn to shreds unless breaking very close […]