Surfers in the mist

The day began with a thick sea fog smothering the beaches. Real humid morning. Plenty of moisture. Very typical of this time of year. Small waves. 1-2 footers at Bondi, 2-3 footers at Maroubra. A huge swell has arrived in Hawaii. I just got a swell alert email saying 42-50ft. Gotta love that place…I hope […]

See full post & more photographs

Hereward

Finally after a long spell of very small waves we have something to ride! Yes, waves. Bondi is 3 foot, Maroubra was a bit cleaner and I saw some bigger sets. Interesting stuff: The Bondi Board Riders won the teams event and 2nd in the overall for the Australian Board Riders Battle on the weekend. […]

See full post & more photographs

Easts

Let’s not muck around. The waves are so good at the moment. In fact…the surf in Sydney has been really good for the past 48 hours. Lucky aren’t we? I love these strong East swells – it just feeds into everywhere. Great for spreading the crowd. I saw some sets around 3-4 foot this morning […]

See full post & more photographs

Ramps

Damn those sand banks at Bondi are straight. Some of the finest close outs on offer this morning. Every now and then a close out would hold open long enough for a ramp. Mostly 2 footers. Suns out. Tomorrow is going to be a steamy 35 degrees! Did you hear that they pulled a Great […]

See full post & more photographs

Cray Cray

Today is a new day…completely different to yesterday. It’s perfectly sunny now…storm, what storm? OK she’s a little cold but it’s warming up quickly. The rogue swell remains the same, it has just tweaked a little to the East opening up surfing options. Oh boy, she’s got some grunt. I saw some big sets in […]

See full post & more photographs

Bondeye

Not all days are created for the beach. Today is not a beach day – at all. It’s a rainy day with onshore, sloppy 2 footers. Looked so, so, so bad out there for surfers. The beach was empty and Bondi village was like a ghost town. 2 days ago 30,000 people would have been […]

See full post & more photographs

Cross / Shore

Howdy. Great day yesterday wasn’t it? Felt just like summer. The schoolies took over the beach. Today is a lot cooler, but still a stunner (20). Spend some time outside. Down the beach the swell looks confused. To back my observations up the charts are showing signs of a East swell, a South swell and […]

See full post & more photographs

Thunder

Did you know that “Maroubra” is the Aboriginal word for place of thunder? Plenty of thunder down there yesterday. It was pumping. The leftovers weren’t too bad today, head high and super clean before the storm hit. Unfortunately if you are reading this update and haven’t already surfed – you missed it. Shows over. This […]

See full post & more photographs

Wildlings

Conditions are pretty wild here in Sydney. The swell has kicked and there are 6 footers on the loose. The swell looks disorganised. The howling winds not helping. A couple of little protected corners would be good today…not unreal. Not like Teahuppo was yesterday. Oh man…what a day of surfing. I am kicking myself I […]

See full post & more photographs

Misguided

We have waves! Good ones… I’m giving up on forecasting this week as reality is exceeding my predictions, daily. It is 3 foot and from the south east. Super clean with chilly offshores. Bondi and Maroubra both had good waves. The joys of winter. ::uge P.S. I lost one of my favourite flippers today at […]

See full post & more photographs

Waxers

Hola. Since we last spoke there’s been a few lil’ surprises down the beach. Yesterday afternoon the swell kicked and 4 footers were on offer at Bondi. So good, especially without the crowd. This morning was only forecasted for small 1-2 footers but it’s breaking head high. The sun has come back and it’s another […]

See full post & more photographs

Brass Monkey

It was one of those frosty mornings – 6 degrees. The beach was pretty much empty and there are waves. Bondi was a little disorganised so I headed down to Maroubra. It’s 2- 4 foot, nothing amazing but well worth a paddle. Big south swell hitting this Sunday…a whopper! ::uge

See full post & more photographs

Tubes

It was an all-star cast down at a local Sydney reef. Aren’t our best surfers meant to be in Fiji soon? Mick Fanning, Owen Wright, Bede Durbidge, Blake Thornton, Pama Davies, Phil Macca, Julian Wilson are all out enjoying this incredible day. Look outside…gentle offshores and a growing 4-5 foot south swell. Bingo! ::uge

See full post & more photographs