Normally I like my islands filled with palm trees, a little right hander wrapping around one corner, ya know, in the pacific…
Well I’ve arrived at Manhattan Island NYC just for something different. Ok I haven’t seen any organic matter yet or a wave…but it’s just as amazing.
For years people have told me how much they love NYC. After spending a few days here walking the streets, I can see why. The place is alive, 24/7. Just everything is to the max. Every nook and cranny of NYC has some sort of activity. It feels like the centre of the world.
The population of New York City is 8.337 million. That’s double the whole of Sydney in this one tiny area. (59 km2)…that’s crowded! Especially when you throw in another 50 million annual tourists per year.
Manhattan has so many tall buildings on it you wonder how it doesn’t crack apart. Apparently the base of this island is solid Granite, where they pin the world’s tallest buildings. Central Park was a swamp (no granite), so that area was spared from sky scrapers.
For those readers that must see sand and ocean in their daily Aquabumps fix, we are heading to Montauk today. It is hot here! If you are planning a trip out to The Big Apple, book your local accommodation here. We’re staying around Soho but I also rate East/West Village…Chelsea or Greenwich areas.
It’s not often I stray from the coast but today I am in the incredible metropolis of London. It’s summer here and the sun is out – what a great time to visit.
I haven’t been back here in years…such a different pace to the Mentawai Islands I was in 10 days ago! The place is rammed with people. Every tube train, every restaurant, every pub corner, every hotel is overflowing with people. Apparently it’s like this all the time…which just blows my mind.
London is a world city. Walking down the street you’ll hear dozens of languages. The shopping is on steroids – I found a few corners where they haven’t built a Zara (which you can normally find one within every 100 metres).
Next stop, quiet old town of New York City.
Big swell hitting Sydney early next week…but for now it look small and offshore. Good for the loggers.
The waves have been great around here. Real good. Only small, but as you know Bondi can’t handle too much. The banks have been very generous with rights, lefts and multiple peaks.
To match the good waves we’ve had huge crowds. Friday afternoon was one of the busiest I’ve seen on one peak. Mayhem!
Today it is small, like 2 foot. It’s clean and still working. Much quieter.
Looks like there is a big swell coming this Sunday. Red alert hell men.
I’m taking off overseas today. Yeah I know…I’ve only been back 7 days…but this time I am heading to London and New York. These updates will be a little more intermittent…thanks for your patience. I don’t normally visit the big smokes and prefer blue water and small islands…so it’s probably going to freak me out.
Bye :: uge
Hey. Wasn’t it a nice lil’ surprise to see some decent waves down at Bondi this morning. Our south facing beach was squeezing every inch out of this southerly swell…every inch. I was expecting 1 footers but found the odd head high set. Bonus!
It’s Friday…the fluoros are out in force and swell looks to have a lil’ pulse later today. Good times.
Tommy Carroll, legend, is asking for your support. Watch this and cough up a donation, please. If you’ve been to the Mentawais or planning a trip…SURFAID are the ONLY aid working in the area and you need to give back. Terima Kasih (Tear out my car seat).
The hardest part of my morning is the time between peeling out of bed and putting on a wet wetsuit. From then on it’s all gravy. These cold mornings make you feel magnetised to your bed…but should you get up and get down the beach, you will find warm water, 2 footers and glorious morning gold.
Worth getting up for…
Yesterday arvo the wind blew more south and created a lil’ mess. Bondi was still junkie this morning (and head high).
If you like surfing without the crowd, these mornings are built for you. It’s random and a little chilly…but something to do.
I’m gonna wait for it to clean up a little.
Our mate Lauro has created a new website. It’s called SUMMERSITE. He’s based it on two of my favourite themes, The BEACH and SUMMER. You could win 5 nights at Komune Bali by subscribing. Takes 2 seconds and it’s free…why not?.
Sorry about the late update…think my clock is still in the Indonesian Islands.
These mornings are damn dark. At 7am the light is struggling to get over Ben Buckler. For your records, this Saturday is the shortest day of the year. I love the light at this time of year – so rich, so gold, so good to shoot!
The surf has halved from yesterday’s boomers. It’s still 3-4 foot but nothing really special.
All week looks like fun for surfing…offshore and southerly swell…good for Bondi.
I’ve returned to Sydney after my lil’ Indonesian junket and wow, we’ve got some beefy swell in town.
The swell is nearly 180 degrees which means its VERY SOUTH. I know of a few little reef nuggets that would be firing right now with these grooming west offshores.
If you’re not in the water right now you may wanna think about hitting a protected corner. Bondi is completely maxed at 8 foot plus and unrideable. Go for a drive.
The forecast for this week is AWESOME. Waves every day and offshore winds. Doesn’t get much better than that.
You’ll need a good wetsuit as the temperatures have dropped. I’ve just got a new O’Neill Psycho 3 3/2 and it’s super toasty.
Adios :: uge
After nearly two weeks of back to back swells in the Mentawais it’s finally gone flat. Good timing really as we are heading home with sore shoulders and good memories. One of the best trips I’ve had up here with superb weather and waves 11 days out of 12.
This afternoon we parked the boat on the end of an idyllic paradise beach…and chilled. There was a little 2 foot right wrapping the island but we’ve filled our wave quotas.
See you back in Bondi…
The Mentawais are a chain of seventy islands and islets off the western coast of Sumatra in Indonesia. The area is littered with world class waves which nearly all break on sharp coral reefs. There is more than 100 surf breaks in the area. I’ve been here 15 times and still seeing new setups (especially when the swell is big).
The best time of year to come here is during our Aussie winter. The swells are generated way down south and travel up the west coast of Australia where they come from very deep water striking this isolated archipelago. As the swells travel such a large distance to get here the gaps between the waves are very long (long intervals)…which grooms them into ultra clean lines – ideal for surfers.
There is plenty of land camps now which have popped up in the last decade…but I prefer a boat where you can surf a dozen different breaks in 12 days. Boat life isn’t for everyone though! After 10 days of being on a boat with 12 guys things can get weird.
If you’re just starting out in surfing I wouldn’t recommend the Mentawais. The waves are fast and hollow and it’s easy to cut yourself. Nearly everyone on this boat has some sort of wound. The Maldives is probably better for the newbies. But then again I just saw a Swiss guy paddle out to Hts on a Chinese mini mal. I’m not sure he’ll last long out there…
Jumpa lagi ::uge
It’s been pretty damn-amazing in Indonesia lately. The swells have been consistent and the winds variable. These ideal conditions spread the boats throughout the archipelago and it’s easy to be surfing on your own. The other day I surfed 7 hours in 1 day. Haven’t done that in an ages, but when’s she’s pumping you’ve just gotta do it.
Hope all is good back home.
It can’t pump every day…after nearly a week up here the waves have turned off. A good time to let the reef cuts heal. Swell is coming though…and should hit later today. She’s gonna be a big one. But for now it’s messing around on the boat and DVDs. Here’s some odd bits and bobs shot this week.
By the way…if you’ve just tuned in I’m in the Mentawais, Indonesia…90 nautical miles off Sumatra. We’ll be broadcasting off a boat for another week.
Have a great weekend, don’t forget the Aquabumps Gallery is open 10am to 6pm, 151 Curlewis Street Bondi Beach.
Its official, we’ve found paradise. Don’t ask me where exactly as we travel through the night waking up at a different surf break each day.
Today we surfaced at a neat little empty left (no name) on the point of a coconut lined bay. It’s pristine – untouched by humans. The beaches have no evidence of human carelessness…no rubbish, no ciggie butts in the sand and no worries!
SURFAID PARTY IN BONDI TONIGHT
Surfaid is the only charity working in the Mentawais (where I currently am). Coincidentally they are holding a fundraising party in Bondi tonight (Thursday 5 June 2014, 7pm – 10pm) @ the Bucket List on Bondi Beach. It would be great if you all showed support for this awesome organisation. Tickets 50 bangers. To Book visit: http://www.surfaid.org/bondiparty Enquiries: Jo Lynas [email protected]
We’ve arrived at the Mentawai islands and its pumping. Proper. In Indonesia May/June are when you start see swells from those great southern lows.
We’ve been here… together…many times before so you all know how much I rate this place… but today was really quite exceptional. Even ended with a cracker sunset thanks to an Indo volcanic eruption.
It’s going to be a great couple of weeks and I hope you enjoy this break from Bondi shots.