Heading Home…
After surfing 26 surf breaks in 12 days we’re now heading home. We’re done. Cooked. Spaghetti arms. I haven’t worn shoes or touched dry land since May. And barely any mobile reception – it feels good to get off the grid. Today I’ve switched on my computer and have dozens of messages saying they wanna holiday […]
Y E S
The swell forecast was 21.1 seconds, South swell at 3.5 foot with NW winds. Translation = good waves at Bondi. Well that didn’t happen. It’s tiny. Instead it was more like: 25 degrees, perfectly sunny, no wind and knee to waist high waves. Oh, and water clarity incredible and warm water (still). I feel like […]
C A V E M A N
I spent the morning hiding from the rain in a cave at South Bondi. It poured…and poured. The great news is that there are fun waves in the head high + range. Grey weather makes for no crowds…best time to surf Bondi. It was pretty wonky…but you might score a few fun ones. Wind is […]
Dash to Deserts
Yesterday we crossed the 2nd deepest water channel in the world, the Lombok Strait, which is 3 kilometers deep in parts. A one-hour speedboat ride from Lembongan Island will take you to one of the most famous, most fickle left-handers in the world…the almighty Desert Point of Lombok. You’ve seen it in mags, in surf […]
Flashback
I went down the beach this morning and it wasn’t pretty. A strong southerly is here and it’s making a mess of things. The skies threaten rain and there’s barely anyone around (including surfers). Yesterday was your best option for this week. I shot some real bad images of mushy water, but I thought you’d […]
The Junkyard
Good morning kids. In the shadows of recent morning gold, today is rating relatively low. The surf has gone all junkie and bumpy (smaller too!2/3). There were a few fun lefts, odd right but definitely not cranking. The banks are still there and it looks like more swell arrives tomorrow – hopefully it will switch […]
Wayside
The southerly has been and gone… and so has the swell. Last night I saw chunky 4 footers marching in and now only 2 footers grace Bondi’s shores…(weak 2 footers too). Blink and you would’ve missed that spike in swell…oh well, there’s something good brewing for the weekend. I’m talking 18 second, 6-8 foot goodness […]
I’m baaaack
I am back from my 4 week sabbatical and pleased to find 3-4 footers down at Bondi. Yeah it was a little bumpy, dumpy and random but highly surfable and very few out. So I’ve been hearing ALL about the past 2 weeks of south swell madness. How fortunate for you. Hope you’ve scored your […]
s w i t c h
The swell direction has flipped over to the NE and other breaks are showing promise. Bondi neglects the north swell so it was 2-3 foot but much cleaner than the Maroubra which was 3-4 foot, but a bit wobbly. Winds are offshore all day – ah yes, a good day for surfing. High tide 9am, […]
Indecision
If you’re looking to kill half a day, put 5 surfers in a car and drive around the northern beaches for 7 hrs. Easy done! Check break A,B,C then go back to C, check D, then one surfer reckons the tide is good for A but by that time we’re due for coffee and gags, […]
the stink weed
Some days it’s torturous coming up with 5 interesting images to show you all when there is no light, no waves and a pile of stinky weed on the shores. Bondi is a full shorey…don’t even think about it and do something else I say. On the 2pm low tide you might get a knee […]
Feral
It’s pretty feral outside. 30 knots of onshore southerly is ripping through, bringing rain and chaos. Forget the beach today in Sydney…it’s shambles. Good day to be inside and pumping out the work, or better still, great day to be back in Fiji. Here are some images from our recent Fijian sojourn. Keep dry :: […]
Corner traffic
Sorry about the lack of updates lately – it’s me not you. Today the swell has managed to wrangle a 2-3 foot wave in the southern corner of Bondi. It looked great, when they came through, but it was very inconsistent…and crowded. It’s 2:50pm and the NW winds are hooooowling 25-30 knots. So paddling into […]