F L U I D

It’s Friday and the swell is dropping just in time for the weekend. It’s still rideable and chest to head high on sets. The NW (6kn) winds have really cleaned the place up and the new banks are working a treat. After all that rain I reckon the south drain pumps out some sand into […]

See full post & more photographs

B R I E F

I’ll keep it short for you today… The swell has come up a little…it’s now breaking around your waist line (but is very weak and suitable for Malibu equipment). The swell is from the ENE so Maroubra, Tama, Bronte should have more swell, but let’s face it, it’s not pumping. The water temperature has dropped […]

See full post & more photographs

Flux

I woke up this morning and could hear the ocean rumbling out front. First thing I saw was a dude rolling into a large set at Pipe…clean as a whistle…immaculate…he made it out after being wrapped in water (and lots of it). Today is gonna be a good day I was thinking. After shooting a […]

See full post & more photographs

Bondi Bumps

We haven’t had good waves in ages. Not much has broken over my head during the festive season in Sydney. My shrink told me to look at other sports over summer, you know, be less 1 dimensional and spread my energy into sports less dependent on fickle weather’n’waves (or move to Hawaii). Today we have […]

See full post & more photographs

Staple diet

Wow, what a morning… I hope you got up early for it. Today’s 8 images taken at sunrise depict a staple diet for us …a shot of the Icebergs (std), couple good surfing shots with waves overhead high (tick), a sunrise shot over Benny Buckler (No.356,767), a surfing lifestyle shot with Andrej paddling out in […]

See full post & more photographs

Red

There has been some freaky natural moments going down in the past 24 hours. Let’s start with that super moon last night, wasn’t it huge? Biggest it will be in 25 years. At 6am this morning the sunrise was sprayed red above Sydney. T’was quite the spectacle. And now we have a thumpin’ east swell […]

See full post & more photographs

The Lone Wolf

When I travel and tell people I live and surf in Bondi they have this look of pain on their face, usually followed by “bit crowded there init?”. This makes me think back to days like these. It’s 4-5 foot, kinda clean, overcast and 1 dude out. Ok, it’s not barrelling and far from perfect […]

See full post & more photographs

BANG

Hope you got up early this morning…as of 8:40am a violet south change hit with a BANG. What this means is: The change brings cooler temperatures for Sydney after a sweltering hot night – did anyone sleep last night? The early 1-1.5 footers of the early have been butchered into 30cm wind chop All this […]

See full post & more photographs