When I travel and tell people I live and surf in Bondi they have this look of pain on their face, usually followed by “bit crowded there init?”. This makes me think back to days like these. It’s 4-5 foot, kinda clean, overcast and 1 dude out. Ok, it’s not barrelling and far from perfect but who cares – it’s all yours. If the sun was out they’d be 50 people in the water. Oh yeah, the water is chilly too. But it looks like you’re all getting over your footie-long-weekend blues. The swell will drop a foot each day of this week. Northerly winds on Thursday. That’s about it.
I just watched the trailer to “Caught Inside”, a new film by director Adam Blaiklock…it’s about a surf charter gone wrong in a remote paradise. Kinda timely after sitting on a charter boat in Indonesia for the past weeks. Except we didn’t have beautiful girls running around our boat – well, ok maybe just Birdie. Launches this week. Watch Trailer Here
Adios :: ugios