1st wave I saw this morning, immaculate PipelineBUY

Flux

I woke up this morning and could hear the ocean rumbling out front. First thing I saw was a dude rolling into a large set at Pipe…clean as a whistle…immaculate…he made it out after being wrapped in water (and lots of it). Today is gonna be a good day I was thinking.

After shooting a few frames with the long lens I swam out there…looking for the good angles. Before the first set arrived a storm blew over the mountain bringing onshores and rain. Within 5 minutes Pipe went from a hungry pack of 80 to 10. I missed my window.

It’s now around midday and the sun is breaching and winds subsiding. It could come back on again.
Back home in Sydney it looks like you have no waves but plenty of heat. 30 today and 38 tomorrow. Wowser.

You know what to do.

As you were : : uge

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12 thoughts on “Flux

  1. Wow love that first shot. what a great way to greet the day and your work day to boot. Was beautiful at Bondi this morning too – a different beauty to this 🙂

    1. yeh boi “I woke up this morning and could hear the ocean rumbling out front. First thing I saw was a dude rolling into a large set at Pipe…clean as a whistle…immaculate…he made it out”

  2. Love the first shot and incredible that I was there in Sep and swimming in totally flat conditions…..how the ocean rules….C

  3. wow – if you ever needed to explain why it’s called ‘pipeline’, that first shot would do it. magic. love your work, you have the perfect combo of technical skill and compositional eye.

    1. Ive had an iphone app for about 5 years, but the up take was slow, maybe I went hard too early.

      Needs updating…will find time. thanks, uge

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