I woke up this morning and could hear the ocean rumbling out front. First thing I saw was a dude rolling into a large set at Pipe…clean as a whistle…immaculate…he made it out after being wrapped in water (and lots of it). Today is gonna be a good day I was thinking.
After shooting a few frames with the long lens I swam out there…looking for the good angles. Before the first set arrived a storm blew over the mountain bringing onshores and rain. Within 5 minutes Pipe went from a hungry pack of 80 to 10. I missed my window.
It’s now around midday and the sun is breaching and winds subsiding. It could come back on again.
Back home in Sydney it looks like you have no waves but plenty of heat. 30 today and 38 tomorrow. Wowser.
You know what to do.
As you were : : uge