Banzai Pipeline, Hawaii...little wonky but fun

Back on the Rock

Welcome back to Hawaii…it’s been a year since I was on The Rock and we’ve missed the joint.

Upon arrival its been 4-6 foot and the locals dismissed it as a day for the kiddies. I must be a kiddie.

There is a MONSTER swell arriving this Friday. Surfline has numbers like 23 seconds/42 feet (faces). I hope my shack doesn’t get washed away. But is it big enough for the Eddie? Hope so… we’ve got front row seats.

M a h a l o : : u g e

PS – Some nice hot weather today and tomorrow for Sydney. Hit the beach!

Beach crew watching Pipe

Pipe hollow

Just wasn't quite barrelling this morning

Tubes weren't orrn, so a few roundies

Nice tight one at Pipeline

7 thoughts on “Back on the Rock

  1. oh man, even if we had swell (we don’t) and it wasn’t impossibly crowded with groms & kooks (it is) i’d still be envious.

    waves that size in the pics our surf report sites here would be going absolutely spastic.

    i repeat: oh man, envious.

  2. Pretty sure the near barrel shot at Pipe is a Brazilian pro named Stephan Figueiredo- He takes on 3rd reef set waves at Pipe no problem- I actually just got my first shots submitted to a magazine of him. Kinda crazy I came across you in the cereal isle at Foodland! Will shoot your website over to Stephan-

    Good meeting you Ugene

    Doug Falter

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *