Maxed

Aloha…last night at 10pm it was 2 foot. Yep. Dos. The calm before the rogue storm. By midnight you could hear sets crumbling out the back. By sunrise it was 4-6 foot with 8 foot sets. At this point I took some photos…the Pipe Pro was called off as the forecast was showing an even more dramatic increase as the day progresses. Right now 3rd reef is not just breaking – but I just saw 1 long wave break from Rockies to Pipe on Thirds. The jet skis are picking up the lost hellman stuck in torrents of water and the spectators at Pipe are copping the odd rinsing as the water rushes up on the beach. It’s big, but still not big enough for the Eddie.
The Pipe Pro will run tomorrow (most likely)…that is if it calms down  –  it’s maxing right now and the wash through sets from thirds ruin all the fun.
On another note, you can now attend surfing’s biggest night out – the ASP World Surfing Awards held on the Gold Coast. It’s on Thursday 23rd Feb at the Gold Coast Convention and Exhibition Centre – BUY TIX and see the crowning of the champ.
Adios :: uge

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3rd Reef

Aloha. You’d probably gathered from the 1st shot today that I am still in Hawaii. Yes, I will return – just not now. A swell has arrived here in Hawaii. A mammoth rogue beast of a swell. When it gets big here on the North Shore a unique reef system makes the waves break far out, protecting the shoreline (hence, there are houses built right on the sand that haven’t been washed away). 2nd reef has broken a few times whilst I’ve been here this month…but yesterday, wow, 3rd reef was breaking and 5 x overhead waves ripped thru Banzai Pipeline.
The Volcom Pipe Pro started but was called off as it got too big and dangerous. That is something that Hawaiians don’t say too often – TOO BIG. When the comp finished some mental free surfers paddled out to catch some bombs. You really have to be on the shoreline here at Pipe to grasp the amount of water moving here. Let’s say you walked 5 metres into the water – you’d be swept down to Rockies faster than you can run. No one shooting in the water (1st time I’ve seen that) and only 5 guys out at Pipe – that says it all.
Of course the King, Kelly Slater wouldn’t miss a swell and I saw him get out of the water at Pipe – chased by a small pack of hungry women.
The forecast says it’s only going to get bigger. Yes, bigger after a short small spell. Surfline calling 20-25 foot with 30 footers tomorrow and Tuesday. I mean c’mon…
If you’re interested in coming to the North Shore of Hawaii, there is only 1 hotel up here – Turtle Bay. Our buddies at Turtle Bay are giving away a 7 day accommodation package to a lucky Aquabumps reader. Yep. Just go here and enter. Good luck…
Adios :: uge

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Kamehameha

Aloha. Happy Australia Day for yesterday. Looks a tad wet back home, and next week, wow, even wetter. Something broken with this summer!
Back here on ‘The Rock’ we’ve had a bit swell arrive. Not huge, not good enough for them to run the Volcom Pipe Pro – but in my book, pretty darn good…look at these pics and tell me if you’d paddle out.
Scrambled random bits from Hawaii:
Will you get a wave at Pipe? I’d say Pipe is the busiest surf break in the world. There are people on it from sun up to sun down (even in the dark)– minimum 40 out, mostly 60 – 70 crew out. You’ll get a wave if you paddle inside Sunny Garcia and fade Jon Jon. If you got 1 wave per 2 hours, you’d be stoked. This morning Sunny got 3 waves in 1 hr. No one paddles for his waves…Are there other places to surf? Oh boy, there is plenty – but yes, the crowds are big and every pro, upcoming pro, pro jnr or veteran world champion is out there with you. I just can’t believe the talent here. Out of the past 21 days on the North Shore – it hasn’t got below 3 foot – so there are plenty of waves to go around and the etiquette is high. I have only seen 1 big biff at Pipe with a 120kg Hawaiian sending someone in. Good coffee? If you like instant powdered coffee you’ll love it. Oh, and everything has sugar in it…the bread, the baby food, the water. You’ll be a diabetic in no time living here. If you’re a bloke, you drive a pickup or ute here. Biggest one you can afford. Some so big they don’t even fit in the carbays. Oh and you must have an 8.0 litre V8 under the donk. Gas is cheap, 98 cents a litre (go figure). The water temp is 26. Perfect. Same as the land! Boardies all day long. Nightlife? Yep in Waikiki but not on the North Shore – Keep the Country – Country. All the girls surf here – all of them (in thongs)…quite distracting. They tend to be the ones doing all the droppin’ in with a sparkling smile and brilliant tan. You see the girls here paddle out on mals in 8 foot solid. Respect. Tattoos, wow…they’re big here too. If you are a tattoo artist you’d kill it here. Tattoos are a part of the Hawaiian culture. It’s 3hrs ahead and 1 day behind in time here. A mac daddy 12 foot + swell is due on the weekend – yew. That means the Volcom Pipe Pro will run. Frothing. As soon as Pipe gets big I hear 4-5 ambulances a day race past my shack – 1 guy got resuscitated in the water yesterday. 2 weeks ago I shot Pipe from the water and on the way in the current dragged me 400 metres down the beach. It’s mental how much water is moving here. Jamie O’Brien was riding a foamie at 6 foot Pipe switching to a mini board mid barrel. No joke.
Ok, Nuff ramble :: uge

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S h a k a

Aloha. Looks like some swell coming in the next few days so I opted to shoot non-surfing stuff today. You’re gonna get enough surfing action…don’t fret. I reckon the Volcom Pipe Pro may kick off tomorrow as well. Loads of hot surfing talent around – just look in any direction and someone is doing an air or sumpin’. You’ll be able to watch it live here
Legend Tony Hawk skated the Bondi bowl yesterday. Watch
Also, our little buddies out Corona took Taylor Steele to the Mentawais on a boat trip – watch
Nuff said. Happy ‘STRAYLA day for tomozza. Great ya flag out and get freaky.
Mahalo :: uge
P.S. I am not revealing where I am staying, exactly, in Hawaii. C’mon, there is nearly 100,000 of you readers including the facey peeps!

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: : d u n k

I thought I’d never say it, but I am surfed out…
The waves in Hawaii have been consistently above head high for weeks now – I’ve filled my quota.
Today was small(ish) so I decided to go beneath the surface for a look around. This is what I found.
The Volcom Pipe Pro waiting period starts today. Day 1 is a Layday. Looks like some swell coming in 2 days time (Wed here, Thurs in Oz). Kelly Slater has rocked up…not sure if he’s surfing in it, but I bet if the waves turn on – yes, he will be out there just to get Pipe without the crowds.
Adios :: u g e
PS – got an ear infection – so no water shots for a few days…torture!

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H.I.

Hey there. We’re still on ‘The Rock’ … Hawaii that is. This volcanic island beauty sitting out in the middle of the Pacific attracting so much swell – especially at this time of year. I guess there is nothing around to block swell and the islands pretty much stick right out of the ocean – in the middle of absolutely no where…
Nearly a million people live here on Oahu – where the famous North Shore resides. The island is made up of so many different races, but it seems many are Japanese, Chinese or Filipino origin. Centuries ago they came out here to work on the sugar cane fields on western boats – now they own most of the local businesses. So you’ll get your shaved ice from Matsumoto’s, or medicines from Long’s or maybe Wong’s…
Anyway, have a good week. I’ll be working on my tan :: uge

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Sand bar

Hey there. Once again small small, but the little sand bar out the front of the shack producing some nice little waves – and don’t they all know about it here. It’s packed. Loads of pro juniors and WCT slashers hustling for waves. It’s nice here. The water is 26 degrees. How good is that. It’s about the same temperature as the air!
I may be in Hawaii right now but the gallery in Bondi is open all weekend – yep!
Later :: uge

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Ehukai

Aloha.
The swell dropped another gear and a small windswell is in town here in Hawaii. Sounds similar to Sydney. It’s only 2-3 foot and the beach parks are a wash with major surfing talent. Everywhere you look… airs, hacks, cutties, reverses…The girls rip over here. Check out Coco Ho, niece of famous Derek Ho and ranked 6th in the world last year…Jez Flores (no.15 in the world) was throwing out some heat also in front of our shack.
Have a good day, :: uge

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7 mile…

Kinda strange day over here in Hawaii on the golden 7 mile stretch called the North Shore. Not many people around…
Odd south wind seems to be hanging around, swell dropped a lot overnight (still 4-5 foot). Skies are grey and rain looks like it’s on the cards.
The North Shore Surf Shop Pro Jnr has kicked off today with 100 under 21s shredding sunset. Only 1 Australian in the event – Volcom’s Jordy Lawler.
Back in Sydney the swell has just kicked in from the ENE, 2-4 foot and sunny – now that sounds like it’s time to play hookie and skip work.
Adios :: ugios

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Lippy

Things change fast on the North Shore of Hawaii. Woke up, cruzy little 3-4 footer out the front, 2 out – lots of tubes. Ate Special K then shot my favorite shore break for an hour. Stopped in for the world’s largest coffee at Starbucks, wired, then by the time I got back to the ranch its 8 foot plus out the front and they just rescued 3 people stuck in a rip. (Followed by 3 ambulances sirens). A moment ago 2nd reef was breaking…and Pipe is disturbingly big (10 foot+) and looks like it is only getting bigger.
Looks like a nice day in Sydney – enjoy the sunshine.
:: uge

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M o n k

The surf here in Hawaii finally dropped off dramatically after 10 days of solid grunt (it is still 3 foot though). Thought I’d take this opportunity to show you something other than Pipe barrels.
See here above is the Hawaiian Monk Seal – a critically endangered species. There are only 1,100 of these seals left in the world and Hawaiian authorities protect them strongly. They feed close to shore and when they feel tired swim up on the sand and sleep for days. This one landed right in front of Pipe and stayed for a day and a half. Not a bad way to spend your day. Sadly 3 Monks were killed in recent months by some messed up people and they’re offering a $30,000 reward on any information leading to the capture of the culprit.
Swell comes back tomorrow…it is going to get big this week. Much bigger than last week (yikes)
Adios :: ugios

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Banzai

The waves have been pretty darn good this week in Hawaii. In fact I’ve never been here when it is not cranking – so I just think this is the norm. I arrived 1 week ago and we’ve had 3 chunky swells. The Banzai Pipeline has been 8 foot plus a few times since being here – even 10 + foot one day breaking way out on 2nd and 3rds. It’s truly an amazing wave…a ruthless, pounding, incredibly hollow wave. So many eat it out there – big time. The take off is tricky…but I think the crowds make it impossible. Needless to say, this joint is popular. Some real talent out there too – Dingo, John-John (always), one of the Gudaskis bros, Koa Rothman, Jamie-O (always too) and a hundred up and comings. Just sitting on the beach watching here is a real treat.
The weather back in Sydney looks good. The NE winds are up and you are hitting 26 degrees later today. South swell 3-4ft – I reckon Bondi would be super fun to surf! Hit it.
Have a great weekend, don’t forget out gallery is open all weekend.
Cheers :: uge

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Black Shorts

All weekend here in Hawaii they’ve been running the Da Hui Back Door shoot out. All the big names are surfing – Bruce Irons, Jon Jon, Reef Macintosh, Tom Whits, Kalani Chapman just to name a few. It’s a different style of surf comp, teams based, no coloured vests, the new generation and some old legends mixed in together. It’s very clever as for a whole weekend it stops the masses clogging up the lineup and you can see the pros pull into some mind blowing caves at probably one of the most famous (and dangerous) waves in the world, Pipeline with only 3 others out. If you’ve been to Pipe you’d know there is a standard crowd of 60 on the peak at any given moment – makes it nearly impossible to get a wave.
Da Hui, is a surf clothing brand born in Hawaii by a group of surfers who are also known as “The Black Shorts”. They’re a bunch of extremely proud people who strongly support the protection of the Hawaiian culture and control the line up here. You know, guys like Eddie Rothman and Clyde Aikau – the guys you don’t mess with.
It’s been pumping too. Yesterday was 8-10 foot Hawaiian – I saw some waves, which erm, dunno how big – but bigger than what I’d like to paddle out in.
Mahalo :: uge

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Live Aloha

Aloha. We’re in Hawaii. Love it here.
We are based on the North Shore and I can see a guy in a Pipe tube as I write this.
We’re going to be here a while, for something new and until Sydney stops raining. (wow, heard about them storms last night!)
It’s been pumping in Hawaii over the past few days. The swell that this little island attracts is ridiculous. It’s basically a rock sticking out of the middle of the Pacific and swells break unhindered along the North Shore.
Oh and it’s gonna get real big here. I can already feel the shack shaking with the pounding swells out front.
Adios :: uge

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Bondi Ants

Happy new year to you all. May 2012 bring you plenty of swell and good times.
These last few days have been exceptionally busy down at Bondi. I’m talking 30 – 40 thousand people on that thin, 1 kilometre slither of sand. That’s rammed! Barely a spare spot to land your towel.
Now, I realise that busy Bondi ain’t for everyone…and it’s probably some peeps worst nightmare…yes yes got it…and all that rubbish and you had trouble parking your car at the local video shop… but… wowsers, what a beaut day to be down the beach. Enjoy it! Love shooting pics of the massive Bondi crowds, very few beaches in the world would attract so many people.
The surf is tiny (1-2 ft) and not really worth talking about. Last week I hope you filled your wave quotas up – it was cranking, everywhere.
These updates may get a little sporadic from here. Thanks for being cool about that…need a bit of time to score a few waves for myself and travel.
The Aquabumps Gallery is back to normally opening hours. 10am to 6pm every single day (including weekends), just not Mondays. 151 Curlewis Street Bondi beach NSW Australia.
Yeha! :: uge

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