::Friday, 12 March 2004

Last night’s swell has dropped and waves were
around max. chest high this morning at Bondi. Couple of fun waves to be
had with the northerly winds creating good conditions. Last night was
smokin’ at Tama and Bondi. Winds going to blow 20/25 knots this afternoon
from the north east.

This morning a couple of blow-ins from the northern
beaches, surf film maker Jack McCoy and producer Sinclair
came down to take a break from filming and actually get
a couple for themselves…Jack and Sinclair are responsible for the
movie Blue Horizon. I’ve seen it and strongly recommend
viewing it on the big screen before it finishes at the Orpheum
in Cremorne on Sunday night. The last 3 daily sessions are showing at
7pm so check out www.jackmccoy.com
for more information. Even if you don’t surf, you’ll enjoy it. The cinematography
is superb and the story of Andy Irons and Dave Rastovich have you frothn’
for the full 90 minutes – they rip. Perfect waves…perfect tubes…hot
For the past 2 weeks Aquabumps/Blue Horizon/HIC
have been running a competition to see the best answer to this question
relating to the hero photo of Andy Irons pulling in:

Question What would be
going through your mind if you were pulling into this barrel?

I received 1300 entries…so many hot entries which
I plan to publish. It was so hard to decide and we had a panel of people
voting on the best responses. Some responses were hilarious…you guys
are funny.

And the winner is [Insert drum roll] – Allan Young.
Well done! You’ve just won a new 6’4" HIC surfboard. Thank you for
all your entries, I will be publishing the entries from the short list
over the next couple of weeks.

Here is Allan’s winning entry:
It is possible to both lose yourself and find yourself
in surfing. There are fragments of the surfing experience which are so
intense that nothing else exists except you, the wave and the next few

In those moments I transcend the everyday
things which claw at my mind for reasoning. I don’t worry about
finance, politics or religion. I am immune to culture and history. I am
in a place uncluttered by sophistication. This is pure. Risk, survival,
freedom. Second by second.

It’s not what is going through my
head. It’s what is not going through my head. And I am more alive because
of it.
I think I’d like to teach the world to surf.

…only a surfer knows the feeling. Have a great day.

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