We’ve ended up in the land of the rights – righthanders that is. Indo is famous for its lefts, but we’ve found a group of islands near the equator that are predominantly right – suits me being a natural footer. The promised swell arrived today, not nearly as large as we expected – but still loads of fun.
We stumbled across a right, unnamed, in front of an idyllic tropical paradise island. A small village on the shore jam packed with palm trees, golden yellow sand and deep aqua water. You know not many people surf here when the whole village spends the day watching us surf 3-4 foot tubular perfection. You could hear the hooting when you disappear into the tube and then burst out – think they thought it was black magic.
pS some of today’s shots by Filthy Phil Kime