There is a big swell in town. At first, I just thought it was only a 6-8 foot day, but some sets were enormous. I’m not quite sure how big, as not many surfers out to gauge the heights – but the odd 10 foot plus bomb I think.
It was quite an action-packed morning; big swells get everyone a little excited:
I saw a surfer wash into the deadly “Twins” at Tamarama (those big rocks/cave where others have passed away). With the help of the lifeguards and a bit of luck with a lull in between big sets – the surfer made it out relatively unscathed. Buy a Lotto ticket buddy. When in doubt – don’t go out!
I also witness an assembly of 20 riot police (balaclavas and all) at the end of my street in Bondi (sorry no photo). I quizzed them on “What the heck?”, but they insisted nothing was wrong…and move along…
And lastly, in between rogue sets, I saw a guy on a blue board get shacked on the Bronte reef – good ticker – he charged it. Well done.
Be safe out there. :: uge