I’m back in the wave-rich archipelago of the Mentawais (MEN-TAH-WHY) — that dreamy chain of islands dangling off Sumatra’s coast. It’s a place I return to year after year, living aboard a boat, drifting between reefs, chasing empty waves, and unplugging from city life. Honestly, it’s one of my favourite places on Earth — I don’t think I’ve clocked up this many trips to any other destination (21 times and counting?).
As far as Indo surf trips go, we’ve kicked off with a cracker run of conditions (hence the radio silence — I’ve been living in the water). After a few average seasons, we finally scored: consistent swell, light winds, and plenty of options lighting up. The opening days have been pumping — 4 to 6 foot, glassy mornings, and long 12–15 second periods.
Yes, it’s true — the Mentawais are busier these days. Everywhere good in Indo is. But it’s still a far cry from downtown Canggu. You’ll meet surfers from every corner of the globe: Brazilians, South Africans, Americans, Argentinians… and yep, loads of Aussies. There are definitely more boats than when I first started making this pilgrimage, but those uncrowded perfection moments? They still happen. Like yesterday — we surfed the most popular wave in the chain, and somehow, had it pretty much to ourselves for a few golden hours.
Stay tuned — we’re on the move.
I’ve still got copies of my book, celebrating 25 years behind the lens.
:: uge
