Firstly I would like to apologise to all of those crew sitting in an office amongst the concrete jungle. You may even prefer to close this email right now before reading any further…and just pretend you never saw it. The reason being, I’ve taken some time off and decided to take a road trip in search of better waves with this solid swell. And take a look at what I’ve found…After hours of driving, I took a left turn into a small town, then followed an unsealed road to the end where two muddy tracks split off into thick bush…turn left at the fence with a lone thong dangling, parked my car half hanging into a bush, walked down a muddy hill where locals thought it would be funny to lay some fresh turds, (don’t slip), then climbed down a cliff jumping off a barnacle riddled rock into a surfers wet dream. 4 cruzee guys out, glassy 4-6 foot (with 8 foot bombs), 2 tube sections, sunshine…nice. The local blokes reckon you don’t see it like this often. I don’t think I will be letting you know where it is either. I’ll just say – it wasn’t that easy to find.
Not sure what’s happening up at Bondi, but I think you would have found something to surf this morning – nothing incredible. Anyhow, hope you scored a few…
Deepest sympathies to the friends and families of the 4 men who died over the weekend in this chunky swell. Goes to show how unforgiving our oceans can be (again), so take care and surf within your limits.
Final Bondi Board Riders Comp on this Sunday. Meet 7am at the Skate Park.
Gotta run…wind hasn’t come up yet. Reports will be intermittent this week – sorry::ugios