Bondi 7am head to head and half monster chunks, closing out
Dramatic increase in swell size this morning…some decent sized muthas pounding our beaches (hopefully renovating our sand banks). Swell is coming from the south, directly into Bondi closing out most of the bay. If you don’t mind paddling 20 minutes into monster foam balls to get out the back, you may be rewarded with head’n’half close outs (yay). Didn’t see anyone out the back at all. Just a few trying to duck and weave the chaotic shorey. Winds were briefly offshore this morning before swinging onshore. Water is joy 22 degrees, 27 degrees on land and a burger high tide at 8:20am. (Low tide 3pm) We’ve got waves for the rest of the week…so no rush.
Crazy night on the floating surf/beachculture xmas party last night. I know your thinking xmas is long gone, but the festive spirit lived in the300 odd crew crankin’ aboard a barge on the harbour last night. Best view the pics for explanation.
Riding Giants, the new surf film from Stacy Peralta, takes us along surfing’s timeline from it’s early Polynesian roots, to its rebirth in the early 20th Century, to the development of a fledgling surf culture along the coast of Southern California in the 1940s highlighting the group of extraordinary adventurers that emerged: surfers who, not satisfied with the mere recreational and social aspects of the sport, began searching for bigger and bigger waves, pushing the boundaries of performance to explore the "unridden realm". Riding Giants opens tonight at the Cremorne ORPHEUM (t:9908 4344) @ 6:30pm, where you’ll be able to meet the director Stacy for Q&A session. Tickets still available. More Info