Thursday, July 12, 2007

froth.
Gotta say I woke up frothing this morning as I thought it was going to be pumping. No such luck. The swell has come up, tick, and its from the east-south-east, and its quite solid breaking around 5-6 foot at exposed breaks, but we’re too early and it suffering morning sickness – wonky as hell. The swell will build during the day (dramatically), and hit 8-10 foot on dark tonight. With WSW offshores, I would be considering wagin’ work and bakin’ the chariot to one of your little secret cracks in our coastline. Take it easy::uge

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