Tuesday, 29 April 2008


It’s just been silly up here in the Mentawai Islands (Indonesia). 3 days of non-stop epic waves. Not massive (4-6 foot), just smokin’…these islands were only discovered as a surf destination in early 90’s, predominantly by an Aussie – Martin Daly, who was a salvage diver – distracted by the local world class waves. It’s remote, no infrastructure like mains electricity, medical, running water, hell you can still find the tribesman (ex head hunters) wearing traditional loin cloth dress. Today we had to take the dinghy up a crocodile infested mangrove to get some supplies…for real.

Tomorrow the boat whispers say a smaller swell – so we head south aboard MV Tengirri to find wave magnets…

Looks like Bondi is small today but a new swell hits tomorrow…nice

later: uge

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