View from behind the wave....pulling in.

Indonesian Blu

The weather in the Mentawai islands is highly unstable – normally, but we’ve had a good run of clear skies and relatively little wind. This combination makes for clear underwater visibility – great for shooting chargers flying down the line – from behind. It all happens quickly, focussing can be tricky as fins thrash before you.

No scuba gear was used to get these shots (common question). The Jaws of these waves would impale me with all that gear on my back, making the sanctuary of reef cracks hard to squeeze into when a big set rolls through.

The Mentawais have waves year round but the dry season (March-November) has some of the most consistent surf as the winter storms off West Oz provide some decent long period swells. 2 weeks ago they had a swell that hit a 19 second period. (In comparison, we class a 12-second period good in Bondi). Therefore, the swells that break here have travelled a very long distance, refining as they travel, and arriving in Indonesia as perfect, powerful waves. (not a place for beginners)

In my experience, I find May the month that always has one massive thumpin’ swell – generally following the 1st storms of winter. Fingers crossed. Later:: uge

Waiting for a set in the deep blues

Underwater shred

Duckdiving in the turbulence

Big reo from behind

2 thoughts on “Indonesian Blu

  1. amazing! anymore under water duck dive shots? i’m still trying to figure out how to get under monster waves without bailing!

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