The swell has dropped a gear or so, but surface quality has improved thankfully.
Bondi is breaking around 2-3 foot, and a shallow south end bank was starting to switch on – and so did a powerful rip that sucks you out to New Zealand.
We’re expecting this dead south swell to drop right off after lunchtime today, giving it a rest for a couple of days, before a new swell arrives on Friday.
Nw winds now, NE later today (10 – 15 knots) High tide 5:40am, low tide 11:20am. Water is f-f-f-f-f-f-f-reezing this morning. Got a brain freeze after my first dunk – but hey, I’ve been in the Fiji and might just be a wuss.
Huge earthquake off Samoa this morning which has stirred a deadly tsunami. Worst affected area is Samoa – Salani surf camp (near the famous wave Coconuts) has been destroyed. Namotu (the island I was just on in Fiji) has been evacuated…but no Tsunami has rolled through there – all safe. I bet the boys didn’t leave the bar anyway. Say a pray for the people of Samoa as the death toll rises.