Good morning peeps.
Real nice conditions down the beach.
Nice’n’glassy…just small. Knee to chest.
Doesn’t feel cold – does it? Max 22 today.
Sunny for the next two days…then rain.
Next swell due Friday.
Here are 3 videos I like at the moment:
- The Anatomy of Owen Wright
- The Originals (a Shipsterns film)
- Oh…and I want one of these Wave Gardens out the back of the gallery near my new tropical forest that is going in today. Those Spanish are clever, aren’t they?
Over’n’out
: : u g e
Wave garden epic! thanks Uge..how’s Medina’s tube time!!
thank’s for the movie tips, gonna torrent download them 🙂
wavegarden = doom for surfing
Uge i would fix “Those Spanish are clever” if i was you… these are probably the least spanish along with catalans..
notice how everyone’s got his country of origin written Taj Burrow “Australia” Gabriel Medina “Brazil”
and then you have for the locals “Basque Country” hehehe careful when you turn on your car tomorrow
Not sure what you are discussing Yuri. Pretty sure the Wave Garden technology (inland wave pools) was designed and engineered by Spanish folk…that is what I am talking about – not the surfer that ride the wave pool. uge
sure they are spanish for you and me (both the wave pool creator josema odriozola and the surfing kids labelled from “basque country”) since basque country is in.. spain (well a bit in france too).
i was just joking on the fact that people from that part of spain are highly independentist/separatist from central spanish power.. and do not refer to themselves as spanish for the most part. they have a strong local identity and their own language euskara.. yea crazy european history : ) you’ve probably heard of ETA before, that was in that region. but lovely people and great food culture their though!
anyway, forget the smartass joke and keep up the good work..
Interesting stuff about Owen Wright, although I’m sure you would call Jordy Smith a comparable peer and he is the same height at 6’3.
Wavegarden is anything but cool.
Perfect lil’ wave, 24hrs a day, 7 days a week – not cool?
there’s an even better one in dubai
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NgC1aW_qxRA
No mate… not cool for surfing at all.
Leeeman, please elaborate – how can more waves can be bad for surfing? Too many good surfers?
Because a huge majority of the people who try to learn to surf give up beacuse it is too damn hard trying to actually find and catch a wave, live too far from the ocean etc etc. Stick a wave pool into the mix and you have an endless wave to keep trying to stand up on, get to a competent level fairly quickly and relatively easy
All this equals a lot more people in the water who otherwise wouldnt be there.
Going around and around in circles in a wave pool in an industrial park somehwere is pretty gash in my opinion anyhow
100% agreement leeeeman – turning surfing into skiing/snowboarding, probs got a travelator to take you back to the take off. part of surfing is enduring flat spells, shitty banks, close outs etc, not having a sculptured mechnaical wave that you can turn on/off with a switch. its not cool
i cant disagree with the “elitist” surfers who are turned off by this theme park. surfing (mostly) is about the sea, the ocean, the connection with the real element. it is about accepting the nature not controlling it. 2 different visions of mankind and its interaction with nature.
of course at first sight it seems cool and it’s well supported by our modern egalitarianist ideology of everything available for everyone.. well i say if you live inland you will find a sport that has to do with your local nature and that is sustainable (not consuming sh*t loads of energy ie pollution to create a fake wave).
surfing is reserved for those who live on the coast so be it. running a 100m sprint is reserved for those who have legs,, this is the harsh truth. sometimes you gotta accept nature.
truth is everything that turns into mass is hardly beautiful.. mass tourism is an example. billions of people in planes all day to end up in the same tourist attraction thousands of miles away from home. yea seems cool too that we can all see the pyramids, but what’s more ugly than a polluting bus full of tourist dropping by for 2 minutes to take a picture!
plus i cant imagine how sad a daily photoshoot at that place would be : )
wave machine is for pussies
last summer there was a period of no waves for near 3 weeks. If I only had access to a wave machine!
can i add this to the list of videos. http://vimeo.com/68901496 …
amazing isn’t it KJ? I wrote about that last week
yeah dude her smile say quite a bit.
Folks got a bit tangled in your thread today. Your submersed shots, when you’re out there in it, are sometimes quite awesome! But speller B needs to add that wafer [as in thin, crispy thing] is incorrectly spelt. Love your work uge!
Just a guess, but ‘waffer’ was probably a reference to Monty Python’s Meaning of Life, Mr Creosote…
Surfers are surfers because of the ocean… our ability to ride a wave is secondary to our relationship with the ocean… throw a bunch of semi-competant wave riders spawned from a wave pool into the ocean and chaos will reign… wave pools will make the existing problem worse… (for evidence of the chaos look at indoneasia, france, bondi etc etc) thats leeeemans point, along with the commercialism and sexism that already defines surfing to newcomers, wave pools will dilute the essence of our pastime… that is not cool.
ps. ugene, go google the history of the basque country and educate yourself.
i think you people should all just relax and try not to take yourselves so seriously…
Surfing is all about riding waves and putting a smile on your face , regardless of it being in the ocean or in a wave pool…
Zoe, how is sexism in surfing defined to newcomers??? I am curious?? …as far as i see it, women’s surfing has never been more respected, watched and in a good place…maybe you have missed the last few women’s ASP tour events?
@ ian, im totally relaxed thankyou, and sometimes you do have to be serious… i realise its not a life and death situation merely a question of morals but you speak as if you’re one of the semi-competent/conscious surfers that im talking about so, i understand if its hard for you to comprehend that surfing to surfers goes deeper than a mere hedonistic pursuit…. ‘riding a wave and putting a smile on your face’.. if thats what surfing is to you then youre missing about 90% of it, dont ask me to elaborate, take a moment to reflect on the vast array of experiences one has in a single surf… if smiles are abound, bonus! I agree with you in regards to womens surfing being in a better place than ever… thats obvious, what i have a problem with is the sexism… breifly, (because you obviously need some clarity) sex is being used to sell surfing… womans surfing in particular but not exclusively. Woman surfers aesthetics are being exploited to this end… selling ‘sex appeal’ is sexist… if you didnt know… (youre only worth as much as your ability to attract the opposite sex… its caveman shit) that is how the surfing industry is being sexist.. its unfortunate that the industry uses this avenue especially when the womans surfing speaks for itself… this is the cover page/draw card the industry uses and this is how surfing is being defined to newcomers when the emphasis should be on surfing itself… as a result the essence of surfing is being ignored.
Well put Zoe. A surfer with a conscience and a structured mind.. pretty rare these days. Good luck trying to raise the level of consciousness of Bondi hipsters who’s culture has been limited to watching MTV all their life.. : )
I agree with Ian! Surfers take themselves way too seriously sometimes.
Nice thread and comments. I really enjoyed reading you synopsis Zoe, it is food for thought. I find surfing has been one of the greatest teachers of my life, and I agree a both that riding a wave puts a smile on my face, but also that one can reflect on a vas array of experiences in a single surf (every single time) which makes it such an amazing experience – something I recently had to write about ( http://bishansworld.wordpress.com/2013/03/05/meditation-surfing-and-thesis-writing/ ). Thanks again for the comments I found here today 🙂
Cheers
Bish 🙂 @trainthetrainer
Ps I’ve been admiring Uge’s photos for some time now but this is the first time I’ve read the blog – nice one!