These autumn mornings are like a magnet to ocean lovers, especially after our dud summer of unending rain. Scores of frothers (including my whole family) snuck down in the darkness to immerse in the sublime autumn conditions.
Strangely there are waves – I must be looking at the wrong swell charts ’cause I swear the forecast was for flat to dribbly surf. So there’s a head high set out there this morning!
The nemisis rip in the south was making swimming hard; staying in the right spot of the lineup was pretty impossible unless you’ve dropped anchor.
The groms were in force – a huge morning pack, leaving few waves unridden.
Have a fantastic day. It’s raining from Friday to next Wednesday, SO maximise, put the out of office on. You deserve it.
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:: Uge (said Yooj)