Tuesday, April 17, 2007

45 breaks. 100 miles.
Selamat Pagi. In the morning a 6 foot left. In the afternoon a 6 foot right. No complaints there. Na not Bondi kids – up here in Mentawai Islands. They say there are 45 world class breaks within a 100 mile stretch along the archipelago (not to mention the goods in Telos Group, Nias & Simalue islands). Most of them breaking on deserted islands with razor sharp coral. Once coming here, you’ll recognize many landmarks from all your surf flicks. Thought that crook dead tree looked familiar…or that strange rock hanging in the lineup.

500,000 years ago these islands broke off from the Sumatran mainland, keeping them isolated from the rest of Indonesia. The local natives have formed their own culture and dialect – some not even speaking a word of Bahasa Indonesia.

Enough of the geography lesson. Waves are pumping. Let’s see what tomorrow brings. Haven’t got a clue what’s going on back in Sydney. Hope its pumping.

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Later, uge

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