Monday, April 23, 2007

The Mentawai Islands isn’t well known for its right handers – aaaii that’s for sure. Well, excluding the infamous Rifles which works once in a blue moon and HT’s which is one of the main tourist attractions up here (mega crowded)… with the current small swell we stumbled across this tasty little deserted right that just pumps on the incoming tide. I’ve checked it probably half-dozen times before on previous charters, but it’s been simply too dangerous to surf with treacherous reef poking out all over the joint waiting to impale you. Basically if you were to fumble a take-off the skipper will be chuckling as he stitches you up with a Bintang in one hand. Fortunately this tour we scored big morning high tides concealing the bed of nails below. It wasn’t big, but it was ridiculously fun. Nearly every single wave tubed perfectly, regardless of being 1 foot or 4 foot. Get greedy towards the end of the wave and you’ll still get reef tattoos. Only two victims yesterday. (one mofo requiring stitches and a bit of superglue – no ma not me).

I hear the surf back home is flat. So I hope this keeps you frothing in between swells. uge

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