Best wave of the morning. Very infrequent.

Sans Sand

Its offshore – tick. Small ESE swell running – tick. Good banks? – nup, nada, zip.

Consistent 2 footers this morning, with the occasional 3 foot set. No sand banks making most bumps fold into a straight-hander-closeouts. Wow.

Foggy morning, cloudy with a shower of two. (max 20)


I think everyone has a favourite magical board. One that just seems to do what you want it to do – and more. Well 8 years ago I got a 6’1” swallow tail from little Mike Psillakis and to this day its best board I’ve ever ridden. I don’t have it any more as a land dweller at Hts begged me to sell it to him as I was heading into port and he didn’t have a single board left from his 5 board quiver (we rode similar dims). (Hts tends to destroy vast quantities of boards – and people). Then he sent me an email 1 week later saying he broke my favourite Psillakis the day we pulled anchor. Now I bet a little Katiet village grom is riding the snapped half – and ripping on it. Well Psillakis has a new website up, so I thought I’d mention it. No he’s not paying me to say all this – I just rate him as a shaper.

Unidentified throwing out some heat in the small closeouts

Cloudy start to the day again. How about some morning light? - Save the Grey Headed flying foxes

La gosh in the middle

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