Last night before bed I checked the swell charts. I saw a 15 second period forecasted overnight that reverts to 10 seconds in the morning. To be honest, I thought it was a typo or the work experience kids had been let loose in the Buoy weather office yesterday – so I ignored it. If you don’t know what all this seconds and period jargon is ( I don’t really ) – basically forecast was for a short spike in swell overnight.
Anyway, the work experience kids hacked it right. As I pulled up into the car park at sunrise I saw a surfer pull into a (no exaggeration) decent tube all the way across the shallow bank. Wow. It was around 3 foot with 4 foot mackin’ sets, clean and crowded early. Swimming out there was a little more complicated due to a massive rip which kept me busy for hours. Even though there were plenty of surfers out there, and some decent rides amongst close outs, I just couldn’t stay in position. Instead here is a fresh serve of some lip throwin’ dumpers to keep you aquatically inspired.
Zee Quiksilver shop is now open at 383 George Street Sydney for all those trapped in the cubicles. Drop in at lunch time, might be time to grab some new boardies seeing we’ve got beach weather.
Later chinas ::uge