The inbound east swell arrived and provided some fun ones this morning. Looking out the window as I write this I can’t see a cloud in the sky – my, my, what a difference a couple of hours can make (it looked like it was going to bucket down at 7am and was shooting in pure darkness).
This east swell is short lived and will only be here for 24 hrs…luckily a back up south swell is right behind it and should turn it on late Thursday afternoon.
When we were in Mentawais the other day one of our guys cracked his head open at Ht’s quite badly. In desperate need of a doctor and floating on a boat miles for anything remotely medical we were in a spot of bother (all standing on the back deck looking at each other in silence). After a short motor to a local primitive village we came across the Surfaid Docs who just happen to be holding a meeting and they kindly helped us out. Pagey lived but is half as smart as he was before (low base). We’re grateful that they’re out there…in the middle of nowhere…they’re the only ones helping out the Mentawai people (and odd surfer) who badly need the basics. Moral of the story is help SurfAid by donating, or come along with us to their fundraiser next Wed night called ‘Surfing Suits‘. $20 entry, Hugos, 6:30pm, Wed 21st July. Buy tix online. You may need them one day too!
Storm Surfers NZ Premiere is on tonight at 8:30pm, Wed 14th July (Discovery Channel). RC Jones, Tommy Carroll in NZ. More
Stevie Gurrow and Rama McCabe have curated a little art show called the “Whisky Gallery“. It will run for the next 6 weeks at the Flying Squirrel on Bondi Road. More
Ok enough already – all this typing is giving me a headache, uge