I like the mornings. Especially this morning when it’s warm in and out of the water. The swell has evaporated overnight but I still found a tiny bump in the middle…plenty out, plenty to dodge.
Meet Ethan Davis (1st pic of today’s update). He’s 12 years old and only been surfing for 8 months. A good Bronte kid, humble, quiet and full of enthusiasm. It was head high on sets for him today and the lil’ fella threw out some heat on a micro right hander. Being 38 kilos has its advantages – I saw him ride a 0.5 foot wave to the beach. These kids are the future of surfing in our hood…watch em grow.
Tsunami in the Mentawais
By now you’ve heard there’s been an earthquake (7.5) in the Mentawai island chain off Sumatra. Yes, that place I have frequented for the past decade. The quake stirred a 3 metre tsunami wave which decimated Macaroni’s surf camp, ripped the charter boats off their moorings in the bay, and Freedom 3 collided with Midas which in turn burst into flames. All aboard seem to be ok, a bit freaked. As you would be if you were having a beer on back deck and next minute flung into the jungle by a wall of white water. The Aussies might be fine, including Southern Cross (Scuzz) who has now been found, but there have been 40 village deaths so far and they need your help…to put it into perspective, there ain’t no help out there really. No choppers, no rescue out there…Surfaid and the charters boats are it. So please pledge donations to SurfAid today…I just got word from the boys on Tengirri – they’re fine and were at Hts when it went down. They’re now a part of the rescue picking up crew from Maccas and getting them home.
TravelCandy.com are offering free memberships to Aquabumps readers this month (Oct) – go!
:: u g e