A fresh angle on a set


Hawaii is the land of the BIG. Everything is just so oversized here. You’re not a man unless you drive a big pickup (ute) with a V8 6.0 ltr donk. You know, the type you need a step ladder to get into. Then there are the meals. Most of the time you could feed a small family off one portion – yes with fries on the side. Order a coffee and you get a litre of Latte – I’m still coming down from my first one 4 days ago. There’s also a shopping centre here called Alo Moana…and yep, it’s real big complete with the biggest chain stores you’ve ever seen with the biggest variety. Bigger than Bondi Junga Westfield that is. And the surf…well today the swell went from its usual daily BIG, to real BIG. I’m talking 8-10 foot Waimea (but the locals still call that small-mid). Plenty of crew took the day off and grabbed their big boards to hit Pinballs (Waimea’s little brother inside). Pipe and other surrounding breaks were out of control…probably tomorrow it will be back on when it all calms down.

Hope you’re coping with the heat.


The Australia Surf Movie Festival by Tim Bonython kicks off this week. This year he has taken an indigenous angle focussing on some of the best aboriginal surfers (including new Bondi surfer – Otis Carey). Premiere night is tomorrow at the Randwick Ritz Cinema 6:45pm (Thursday 3rd Feb) followed up by a North Bondi RSL screening next Monday 7th Feb at 8pm. All tickets and info available here.

:: uge

PS – flew around the island in a chopper today. Amazing – try it some day. Yep, a big chopper bill too!

SUP stroking in...respect.

The many faces of the shorey

No swimming today folks

Nice wall

The pack and their big guns

Big take off, shot from the chopper

2 thoughts on “B I G

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *