Looks like the charts got it right this week…we’ve got waves, good ones too! It’s about 3-4 foot and coming in from the south. That’s DEAD south (188 degrees if you’re a weather geek). That means basically if you’re not surfing a southern exposed beach it won’t be too consistent – or showing much bump. Bondi was not looking great early, but will improve as the tide pushes in (high tide: 12:50pm, low tide 7am). Bronte had a few and you were all up early onto it!
A few things you should know:
- Leroy Grannis, the forefather of surf photography has sadly passed away at age 93 in Torrance, USA. His images were inspiring, I often refer to his book for a fresh angle. If you don’t have his book – buy it now
- Dudes are riding 5 mile waves in Alaska. Mental
- India has an artificial reef, completed in February 2010 to mitigate coastal erosion from monsoon waves…looks like a cranking left to me…how nice. I think we need to mitigate erosion here at Bondi and should install a reef from the Mark’s Park point to the lifeguard tower. It would only be a 300 metre right. Throw it a couple of barrel sections and I don’t think I’d ever travel again.
Enough ramble :: uge